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HABITS ^DISEASES OFTHE HORSE 







BUFFALO. MAEf^Z LITHOGRAPHING.CO. 




: 



T H E 



HORSEMAN'S 



ILLUSTRATED GUIDE 



ON THE 



HABITS AND DISEASES OF THE HORSE 



AND OTHER ANIMALS. 



By J. C. SCOTT. 



FIFTY ILLUSTKATIO^S. 



y^f 






BUFFALO: 

MAEBZ LITHOGRAPHING CO. 
1880. 



COWTE^TS. 



PAGE. 

Names and situations of the external parts of the horse, . 5 

Introduction, ■ . . > 7 

General principles of managing horses 9 

Man's superiority, 10 

The necessity of proper management of horses, 11 

Principles of thorough training of bad horses, 11 

Educating horses to objects of fear, 12 

The wild colt, 13 

Halter-break the colt, 13 

Hitching colt in stall, 15 

To halter-break a wild colt, 17 

How to bit a colt and make a bridle, ....'.... 22 

Breaking colts to harness, 22 

Objects of fear, . 25 

Driving a colt in harness, 26 

To train a horse to stand when getting into a carriage, . . 27 

Horses baulking, - . . . . 28 

Throwing the horse 31 

Pulling at halter, 33 

To break horses from jumping, . . . - 33 

Pawing in stall and kicking of one foot, 33 

Cribbing horses, ' . 36 

Lead horse behind wagon, 36 

Kicking in harness, 36 

Bridle to ride a wild horse, 43 

To drive a colt before being harnessed, 43 

To make a horse turn his body when he turns his head, . . 43 

To break a horse of kicking at his mate in a stall, .... 43 

To break a horse of kicking at persons entering the stall, . 43 

Luggers on the bit, 49 

To harden a tender-mouthed horse, 49 

Lolling the tongue, 49 






IV 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

Hugging the pole, . 50 

Ugly to bridle, 50 

To educate a horse not' to get cast in the stall, 50 

The only practical way to get a horse up that throws himself, 52 

Practical method of giving a horse medicine, 52 

Horse bad to catch, 52 

To educate colt or horse not to be afraid of his heels, ... 52 

Horses afraid of the cars, 52 

Sure way of making a horse bad to catch, 58 

To break a horse to trot which is a pacer, 58 

To break single-footed horse to trot square, 58 

To break a horse afraid of umbrella or buffalo robe, ... 58 

Horse bad to groom, 58 

To break a horse that kicks when he gets the line under his tail, 64 

To break any horse of switching his tail, 64 

Ladies' equestrian horsemanship, 64 

To cure a cow of kicking while being milked, 71 

To lead a cow or steer behind a wagon, 71 

To make a cow let down her milk, 74 

Practical results of making a cow let down her milk, ... 74 

Horse bad to shoe, 74 

Shoeing, 78 

The shoe, 80 

For interfering 83 

Corns and how to cure, 84 

To learn a horse to appear intelligent, and other tricks, . . 85-88 

The trick dog, 89-94 

Diseases of the dog, 94-98 

Diseases of the horse, 98-124 




So. 1. 



NAMES AND SITUATIONS OF THE EXTERNAL 
PARTS OF THE HORSE. 



1. Muscles. 

2. Face. 

3. Forehead. 

4. Poll. 

5. Crest. 

6. Withers. 

7. Back. 

8. Loins. 

9. Hip. 

10. Croup. 

11. Dock. 

12. Quarters. 

13. Thigh. 

14. Hamstring. 



15. Hock. 

16. Cannon. 

17. Fetlock. 

18. Large Pastern. 

19. Small Pastern. 

20. Hoof. 

21. Sheath. 

22. Flank. 

23. Belly. 

24. Stifle. 

25. Coronet. 

26. Girth. 

27. Elbow. 

28. Arm. 



29. Heel. 

30. Small Pastern. 

31. Large Pastern. 

32. Fetlock. 

33. Cannon or Shank. 

34. Knee. 

35. Forearm. 

36. Breast. 

37. Point. 

38. Shoulder. 

39. Windpipe. 

40. Gullet. 

41. Neck. 

42. Jowl. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Our object in publishing this work is to give the general 
management' of the horse in all things relating to the 
training and driving to which the horse is made liable; — 
we say made liable, because two-thirds of all bad habits 
are brought on by our own mismanagement. There never 
was a naturally ill-disposed horse foaled. All bad horses 
are made so by bad treatment; baulky drivers make baulky 
horses. We have always succeeded in making all horses 
in our hands kind and gentle for all uses. 

We f eql assured in saying that all persons who come in 
possession of this work, and live up to its directions, will 
be equally successful. There is in this book all that is 
needed for the breaking of any kind of a horse, and we 
have used no process not explained here. 

The principle on which we rest is kindness. We wish 
first to give the horse to understand that we are his friend, 
and to gain his affections. This method does not affect 
the spirit of the horse, but makes him your obedient slave 
at once. It causes him to like you, and gives him confi- 
dence when with you, because he feels that you are his 
friend, and by caressing him and always treating him 
kindly the bond of affection is made strong. 

A horse broken on our system will be kind and gentle to 
every one who is so to him. The only way to spoil a horse 
is to abuse and ill treat him. The blood horse is as sensi- 



tive as a well-bred gentleman. He don't wish to be cursed 
and bawled at. Always speak in a low, kind tone, — it has 
a soothing effect. Ladies are the most successful in break- 
ing on this principle ; for after gaining the confidence of 
the horse they are more kind, and increase the affection 
more than men. It is thus by love, not fear, that we gain 
this practical control over the horse. 

In conclusion, I would say our system enables a boy 
fifteen or sixteen years of age to handle and break to 
harness the wildest animal. 

Strength and courage are not essential, but patience, 
perseverance and kindness are required. The man who is 
void of patience cannot control and win the confidence of 
his horse or friend. 



THE 

HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 



General Principles of Managing Horses. 

The great strength and susceptibility of the horse makes his con- 
trol and successful management very greatly dependent upon the 
skill and prudence brought to bear in his education. This requires 
a knowledge of his peculiarities of nature, and of the effects pro- 
duced upon him by different causes and modes of treatment, with 
the art of adapting means to the end of mastering and controling his 
resistance into such limits of character as we desire. 

To properly understand the horse we must view him in his rela- 
tions to man, mentally. He has an understanding, not it is true like 
that of man, still he is animated by a spiritual principle by which he 
is made to feel and see, though with less clearness. It is, however, 
analagous to that of man. Man has an understanding, which the 
horse has not, and he has a rational and moral nature, but the horse 
has no sense of understanding which man does not possess. With 
less strength, physically, but higher order of understanding, it must 
be seen that our supremacy is not meant to be one of physical power 
only, as of brute over brute, but the domination of mind. Hence 
we are thrown back upon and made dependent for our mastery upon 
'the skill and resources of our ability to see and understand the 
causes of resistance and counteract them by prudence and indirect 
measures. 

Now it is seen that the principles of educating and governing the 
horse are essentially the same as those necessary in the education and 
government of man, with the difference of being necessary to adapt 
the efforts more directly to the limited understanding and control of 
the greater physical resistance of the horse. A horse understands 
only from experience, and consequently his sensibilities and impres- 
[9] 



10 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

sions are more acute when once' aroused to an impression of danger, 
and his resistance more positive and determined upon learning his 
ability to resist control. Therefore, three considerations must govern 
the success of the effort. 

First. — The prudence and* skill brought to bear in addressing and 
convincing the intelligence of the animal, and of guarding against 
the excitements and instincts of resistance induced by fear. 

Second. — The ability to restrain resistance and enforce submission. 

Third. — The character of the resistance and the will and endurance 
of the animal to resist control. 

The first consideration implies winning the confidence and pro- 
moting and encouraging obedience by patient, gentle treatment. 

It is this tact of the adroit encouragement of flattery that creates 
and maintains the sympathies of the animal to submit willingly and 
patiently to the restraints and severities of control, the heart rebounds 
and stills the energies to the most willing obedience when rewarded 
and flattered with kindness, when a sense of power is recognized and 
felt to be absolute. Now as far as a sense of inherent power and the 
ability to inflict pain, the horse recognizes man in the position of a 
master, and to the degree that his power is softened by gentleness 
and affection — there is a co-operative desire to obey and submit to 
his control. To be successful in the exercise of this advantage there 
mu3t be patience, gentleness and honesty of effort and purpose. To 
the degree that where there is want of this there is not only failure 
to restrain and overcome the excitement of fear, lt>ut there is want of 
gentleness and obedience characterizing the nature of the horse. 

To enforce the obedience and successful control of the horse im- 
plies a knowledge of such principles and methods of management as 
will give us power to do it. But as resistance may be general or 
local, or both, and varied in character and degree from the most 
vicious and determined resistance to that of some simple habit, the 
efforts must not only be adapted to the degree and character of the 
resistance, but the control must be of the most positive and con- 
vincing character. 

Man's Superiority. 

Man is superior to the horse, because of his intelligence, by which 
he can devise and adopt measures to overcome^ the strength of the 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED. GUIDE. 11 

horse or employ it against itself. The knowledge of training and 
managing horses lies in this mental superiority. Man becomes 
superior to the ignorant horse only so far as he can manage and 
impress him with a sense of undoubted superiority. Recognizing 
the need of conforming to the laws of his nature so as not to excite 
his resistance, do not let him comprehend it possible to resist control. 
Seek in the second place to disconcert and control him under all 
circumstances as to impress him most forcibly with man's power and 
absolute supremacy. 

The Necessity of Proper Management of Horses. 

Prudence in conforming to the laws of the horse's nature and win- 
ning his confidence by kindness, though indispensable, is only as the 
caution which guards against the force of a momentum. There is 
no ability to control, and there would be no need of subduing the 
horse by force, had there been no law of his nature violated. Since 
effects must be the result of causes, every consequence requiring the 
genius of man to combat and control must be the result of his own 
imprudence or ignorance. Harshness, and the neglect of this neces- 
sary attention, while mainly the cause of mischief, lead us to infer that 
the absence of such causes, with corresponding regards for methods 
of kindness, is sufficient to win the bad horse to a f orgetf ulness of his 
power of resistance. The course of reasoning that teaches him man's 
inability to enforce absolute and unconditional submission under all 
circumstances of resistance ; in fact, to disconcert and beat him on his 
ground with the apparent ease and certainty of positive ability, 
without resorting to harsh means or inflicting pain. For, as the aim 
of the physician is to subdue the force and effect of the disease by 
using remedies the least aggravating in their action on the system, so 
the aim of the horseman should be in enforcing the submission of the 
Jiorse to do it as nearly as possible on a moral basis. 

Principles of Thorough Training of Bad Horses. 

The horse' s confidence and rebellion being usually the result of 
long standing in successful resistance, his subjugation must be made 
convincing by repeated proofs of being overmatched, and that resist- 
ance is useless ; for, since his willfulness and rebellion is based upon 



12 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

the limited reasoning of his experience, that unconditional submission 
is the only alternative, and this you cannot prove to the understand- 
ing of the horse without repeating your lessons until he submits 
unconditionally. 

Man has the right of control, restraint, correction, and even 
destruction of life ; but we must bear the consequences of those viola- 
tions of the laws of his nature to which he is thereby subjected. 
Show your horse exactly what you want him to do, and endeavor to 
use the patience and reason in teaching and controling him you 
would at least believe necessary for yourself to understand, if placed 
in like circumstances. 

Ignorant of the language and intentions of a teacher, however 
preserved his patience, and refrained from abuse, what progress 
would you make as a pupil, gifted a3 you are with all your intelli- 
gence? 

If possible, elevate your feelings by relieving your responsibility to 
yourself, to community, and to the noble animal committed to your 
charge. Make your horse a friend by kindness and good treatment. 

Be a kind master and not a tyrant, and make your horse a willing 
servant and a slave ! 

Educating Horses to Objects of Fear. 

As we learn from experience, there are no effects without causes; 
and, as the horse becomes fearless and confident, so far as he under- 
stands, there is no causes for fear. We should remove the cause of 
mischief as much as possible, by complying with those laws of his 
nature by which he examines an object or determines upon its inno- 
cence or harm ; and this is the more necessary in his early training, 
since first impressions are strong in the horse, and once learning of 
danger when once excited. Whatever the horse understands to be 
harmless he does not fear; consequently, great attention should be 
given to making him examine and smell of such as would be likely 
to frighten him in any place. A horse will never become satisfied in 
regard to an object that startles or frightens him by looking at it; but 
if you will let him approach it slowly and examine it with his nose, 
he will very soon become satisfied it is not going to injure him, and 
he will care no more about it, and will never after frighten at it, how- 
ever frightful it may seem to be in appearance. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 13 

The Wild Colt 

As the training of the horse mrtst be based upon the observance of 
those principles of his nature requiring the exercise of his reason in 
everything forced upon his attention, ^.nd of conveying to his under- 
standing most clearly what is required of him, it is advisable to com- 
mence our lesson on the management of the horse by explaining how 
to proceed with the Wild Colt. The first step to be taken is to see 
that the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon the colt is 
unoccupied by anything which will distract the attention of the colt ; 
for instance, fowls, domestic animals, etc. , and all persons except the 
one who is to undertake the training. This latter precaution should 
be taken for the reason that the presence of other parties would annoy 
the colt. Also, that, by allowing them to be present, you would 
violate the conditions of your instruction*, 

Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt into his training 
place as carefully as possible, using such gentle means as may be 
convenient and most likely to be successful without exciting the colt. 

Every farmer or person at all acquainted with the management of 
horses knows well enough how to do this in his own way, without 
being governed by any fixed rule. The next thing to be done is to 

Halter -Break the Colt. 

As soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the restraint of the 
enclosure, go cautiously and slowly towards him, making no demon- 
strations at all, but talking gently, or singing, as you please. It does 
not understand your language, and your presence may attract his 
attention. If he begins to walk away from you, stop, but continue 
your talking or singing, and appear as careless as you can about his 
presence until he becomes quiet again. Then start again, and leisurely 
approach him as before, and so repeat, as circumstances require, until 
you are close enough to touch his withers, or permit him to smell of 
your hand, should he seem so disposed. Remember, you must be 
patient and gentle in all your actions. Now touch him on the withers 
gently, and gradually win his confidence, so that you can handle and 
rub him on the neck or head. Do not try to hold him or impose the 
least restraint ; that would cause him to become excited and afraid 
of you. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

Handle the colt in this way until he becomes reconciled to your 
presence, and will suffer you to scratch him as you please. 

Now step back and take your halter quietly. The halter should be 
of leather. Rope halters are irritable to young horses; they are so 
harsh that they hurt the head whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt, 
the colt will naturally try to get his head out of the halter, and the 
more it will hurt, because the tighter and harder it will pinch, which 
will frighten him the more, and he will try to free himself at all 
hazards, until he pulls himself down or breaks the halter. In that 
case his experience would have been a bad one, for you would have 
learned him to be a halter-puller. You hold the halter in the left 
hand, having unbuckled it, and approach the colt slowly ; don't be in 
a hurry ; give him time to smell and examine every part in his own 
way. While he is examining the halter, caress and rub him; it will 
further your efforts greatly to give the colt something he likes, such 
as apples, oats, corn, salt, etc., that you can get hold of handily. 
Then take hold of the long strap which goes over the head with the 
right hand and carry it under his neck, while you reach the left hand 
over the neck and grasp the end of this long strap ; then lower the 
halter just enough to get his nose into the nose-piece ; then raise it up 
to its proper place, and buckle. 

This is the best method to halter a colt, and, in cases of wild ones, 
perseverance and patience is required, always being careful not to 
become excited or angry, for, in that case, the colt will show a great 
deal more resistance, which, in the end, and at a great loss of time, 
you will have to overcome. 

Hitching Colt in Stall, 

(See Engraving No. 2.) 
Two principles are involved in controling and teaching the horse 
to submit to the restraint of the halter while hitched. Prepare your 
stall, which should be about four or five feet wide, by attaching a 
rope so as to bring it across and fasten firmly, so as to strike the hind 
parts ; or you can bore holes through so as to put a pole in the same 
manner an a rope. Now tie the halter long enough, so that, as the 
colt attempts to go back, he will strike the rope or pole across behind 
him before he can feel the restraint of the halter. You should in this, 
as in everything else you attempt, teach your colt to be gentle. In 
every case you should untie the halter before taking down the rope 



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THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ^ 17 

or pole. Another method: take a half-inch rope, place under the 
tail, cross on the back, bring forward and tie under the neck or the 
breast; then pass the halter-strap through the ring of the manger and 
tie to the rope, so when the horse pulls he will be punished, and the 
impression will be made stronger than the above. 

To Halter -Break a Wild Colt. 

(See Engraving No. 3.) 
First provide yourself with a little pole about ten or twelve feet 
long; cut a notch into one end with your pocket-knife, and about 
seven inches from this end drive a nail in, the head bent a little 
towards the end having no notch. Next, you want a good half-inch 
manilla rope, about thirty feet, with a slip noose in one end, and a 
knot in the rope about twenty inches from the end with the noose, so 
that it will not draw so tight as to choke the colt down, but will 
allow the noose to draw tight enough to shut off his wind, so as to 
prevent him from making a very obstinate resistance. Now get a 
short breast-strap, or a long hame-strap will do. This put into your 
pocket, convenient to the right hand, for future use. Now approach 
the colt slowly and carefully, as before described, remembering that 
all persons must be excluded. When you succeed in approaching to 
within four or six feet of the shoulders, retreat slowly, as before, and 
take your stick all ready prepared, holding the notched end from you 
and swinging it very gently a little to the right and left in a horizontal 
position. This is a new object of fear to the colt, and will be re- 
garded with a great deal of suspicion. However, a little patience 
will soon enable you to get so near the colt that you can hold your 
stick gently over the back and shoulders. Then gradually lower it, 
moving gently as before, till you can place your hand on his neck. 
As this is borne let it drop a little lower until it rests upon the mane. 
Now commence scratching the neck with the stick gently, but firmly. 
This will please the colt and cause him to stand quiet. While scratch- 
ing with your stick in this way, slide your right hand slowly and 
cautiously along its surface until you get to the mane, when you 
scratch with the hand in the place of the stick. All this is proving 
to the colt that you will not hurt him ; in fact you please, and hence 
he submits quietly. Now step back quietly to where your rope is 
and take the noose and place it oh the stick, letting it rest on the 
stick, and between the nails or shavings, with the main part of the 



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THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 19 

noose hanging below the stick, and large enough so as to be slipped 
over the head easily, while you keep the other end of the rope in the 
hand with the stick. Your halter or noose now hangs upon your 
stick, so spread that you can put it over the colt's head without 
touching a hair. Your halter arranged, holding it before you, swing- 
ing upon the stick, you approach the colt in the same cautious man- 
ner as before, until you bring it to the nose. - This being a new 
object of fear to the colt, he will smell of it cautiously. While he is 
smelling it, you are gradually raising it over his head — so gently, he 
does not feel or care about it until you get it well back of the ears; 
then turn your stick and your noose will drop on his neck. If he 
does not start, take the slack in your rope gently; at the same time 
•approach his shoulders cautiously, and rub him gently, if he will 
allow it. 

If he should endeavor to run away, keep hold of the. rope. If he 
tries very hard to get away he soon finds himself out of wind, caused 
by the pressure o£ the rope about the neck, consequently he will offer 
but little resistance, and will very soon allow you to come up to 
him just as you please. Now you should use him gently. 

As soon as he will allow you to approach, loosen the noose from 
his neck, and by kind words and caresses let him know you do not 
wish to hurt him. Keep on caressing him till he will allow you to 
rub his neck and ears. Encourage him by feeding from your hand 
something that he likes. When he submits so far as to let you handle 
his head and neck, take the other end of the rope and tie around, 
make hard knot in the end and another knot about twenty-five inches 
from the end. • 

This knot should be left slack. Now take the end of the cord in 
the left hand and carry it under the neck to the opposite side, while 
you reach over with the right hand and take it and bring it over the 
top of the neck again. Now put the knot in the end of the cord 
through the other and secure by drawing it as tight as possible. Now 
make a loop by drawing it up as tight as possible. Now make a loop by 
drawing a double of the slack rope under the rope around the neck. 
Make the loop long enough to slip into the colt's mouth, which can 
be done easily by gently insisting on his confidence. A green colt is • 
not bad about taking anything in his mouth if you use judgment and 
do not frighten him. Slip this loop well up above the bridle teeth, 
and place the lip well over the jaw, under the roof. Now draw up 



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22 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

your rope, by which yon can inflict so severe a punishment that he 
will submit in a very short time, and allow you to handle his legs 
just as you please. Persevere until you can hold the foot in your 
hand, moving it gently and caressing the leg until he gets over the 
fear inspired by the use of the cord under the lip. If more thorough 
treatment is necessary, see "Proper Management of Horses Bad to 
Shoe." 

How to Bit a Colt and Make a Bridle. 

(See Engraving No. 4.) 

Take your Camanche bridle, made exactly as before described, 
with the exception of the loop that goes around the neck; that 
should be made large enough to fit over the neck rather tightly where^ 
the collar is worn. Now bring your cord through the mouth from 
the off side, and bring back on the near, through the loop around 
the neck; now pull upon this cord and the head will be drawn back 
to the breast, tie with a bow knot and draw down close, so that 
should the colt show signs of rearing backwards, with one short jerk 
you can relieve him, while should he go over backward with the 
restraint on his neck he would be likely to injure himself. 

You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon the cord a little, 
which will draw the head back slightly; after holding for a short 
time, render loose ; then draw a little tighter, and repeat for four or 
five minutes, then stop bitting, and repeat at some future time. 

The great secret not only in bitting but of training the young 
horse in any manner is in not confusing or exciting him to resistance 
by training too long. When your colt yields readily to %e bit, you 
can check the head to suit. Making the check-rein rather tight causes 
the head to be carried high, while the delicacy given the mouth will 
prevent the nose being thrown forward. This method of bitting may 
be regarded with little favor by those not understanding its effects, 
but all we have further to say on the subject is, give it a fair trial. 
Teach your, colt to be perfectly submissive to your handling in every 
manner, to lead well, and to back freely at the word. You are now 
ready for the next step in his training, which is usuaDy driving in har- 
ness. 

Breaking Colts to Harness. 

(See Engraving No, 5.) 

. Put on your harness carefully, which should be made to fit well, 

and great care should be used in having it safe and strong in every 



ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 25 

respect. Do not be tempted to drive your colt in an old, rotten 
harness, or to hitch to an old, rotten wagon, as such are liable to give 
way at any time. Mam of the accidents causing horses to become 
subject to bad habits are the results of such imprudence. Let every 
step be made sure. Work safe, and you are sure to bring about a good 
result, 

With your harness on, allow him to stand in his stall until he 
becomes somewhat used to the presence and pressure of the different 
parts, and will allow you to rattle them about without his caring for 
them. Now lead him around for a short time, and as soon as he 
appears quiet, check him up loosely and take down the reins and 
drive him around the yard. When he becomes familiar with the 
harness, check and reins, and will stop and start at the word, and 
drive around to the right or left, you can drive him about the street 
with safety, though in making this step put on the Camanche bridle 
for safety. You should then drive to sulky. We prefer a sulky 
at first. Let your colt see and examine every part of the sulky, until 
he cares nothing about it ; then draw it up behind him, rattling and 
running it back and forth a few times, then attach the harness. Be- 
fore starting him, back him up against the cross-bar of the shafts. 
If he should act frightened speak to him calmly, but firmly, at the 
same time holding your reins firmly so as to prevent him from swing- 
ing round, if he should try. Then go to him and rub and caress him 
until he gets over his excitement. Then run the sulky up against his 
haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle words until you 
can shove the sulky against him just as you please and he not care 
anything about it. Now you can get into your seat and drive him 
around wherever you choose without danger. Let him go slow at 
first, until he becomes familiarized with the objects that are new to 
him along the road, as he is not as liable to become frightened while 
going slow as when driven fast. 

Objects of Fear. 

(See Engraving No. 6.) 
In driving, be careful about using the whip too freely. If, a stone 
or a stump, or anything of the kind should be regarded with fear, do 
not whip and drive the horse by. Let him stand a short time and 
look at the object until he seems careless about it, then drive closer, as 
he will bear, and so repeat, at the same time talking to him encourag- 



20 THE HORSEMAN S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

ingly until you can drive him up to the object. Be very sure to have 
your colt compirehend fully that such objects are harmless — as oppor- 
tunity offers in this way — and he will soon become so fearless and 
confident as to be regardless of such things; but if you whip him for 
becoming frightened at such things, he will associate the punishment 
with the object of his fright, and be more frightened the next time 
he sees it. 

The horse being unable to reason only from his experience, you 
should convince him by careful examination that the object is harm- 
less. For example : if the sight or smell of a robe a few feet distant 
should frighten him, put on your Camanche bridle and take him 
alone into your yard or barn, lead him gently to the robe, let him smell 
of it if he will, then take it in your hand, hold it gently to his nose, 
then rub it against his neck, side, and over his back, and so repeat 
for a short time. After being familiarized to it in this way, you can 
throw it over his back or tie it to his tail without causing him the 
least fear. 

To familiarize a colt to any article that he may have regarded with 
fear, let him touch it with his nose, and rub him on the neck and 
side, and in a short time, when he finds it will not hurt him, he will 
become reconciled and care nothing about it. 

To accustom your horse to the cars, lead him up to them, let him 
smell of them, and even put his nose on them, and in this, way con- 
tinue until he becomes familiar with them. And, then, do not fail to 
repeat your lessons until he cares nothing about the object. Should 
you fail by neglect it may render him worse than as though you 
had done nothing with him. 

Driving a Colt in Harness. 

When your horse drives well before a sulky then you may hitch 
him to a light wagon or by the side of a broke horse, and if you are 
breaking him for a farm or for hauling heavy loads, you can gradu- 
ally increase his load until he will draw to the extent of his ability 
without comprehending that he has the power to do otherwise. 
After your horse is sufficiently broke to the harness, you can either 
allow him to carry his head as Nature may dictate, or by the proper 
use of the check-rein bring his head and neck into such position of 
style as his form and temper will bear, or your fancy dictate. In 



27 

teaching your young horse to drive well, do not be in a hurry to see 
how fast he can trot. Although your colt may be old enough to 
learn how to move well, and perhaps drive as gently as an older horse, 
he is not old enough to perform the work erf an older horse fully 
matured. Require but little at first, gradually increasing as he 
develops in strength and hardens in his gaits. Care should be taken to 
keep each pace clear and distinct from each other. While walking, 
he should be made to walk, and not allowed to trot. While trotting, 
as in walking, care should be taken that he keeps steady at his pace 
and not allowed to slack into a walk. When occasionally pushed to 
his extreme speed in trot, he should be kept up to it only for a 
few minutes at a time, gradually requiring more as he becomes 
practiced and capable of endurance ; and whenever he has done well 
he should be permitted to walk a short time, and encouraged by a 
kind word. Under no circumstances should what is termed "his 
bottom ' ' be tried and overdone. The reins while driving should be 
kept snug, and when pushing him to the top of his speed, keep him 
well in hand that he may learn to bear well on the bit, as it is by 
means of the reins mainly that the horse, when going at a high rate 
of speed, is kept steady in his place. But while you should teach 
your horse to drive well to the pressure of the bit, be careful not to 
give him the habit of pulling too hard, for then he becomes not only 
unpleasant but difficult to manage. The art of drawing well cannot 
be taught by any written instructions. Practice and ingenuity in 
this respect can alone make a skillful horseman. Always strive to 
encourage and not overdrive your horse, and be careful to whip 
only for merited reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will 
cause the horse to plunge ahead every time he sees or hears any 
unusual movement of it, or at any mishap that may occur. 

To Train a Horse to Stand when Getting into a 

Carriage. 

Take your horse and lead him on the barn floor; place him in the 
position you wish him, and say " Whoa! " The object of this lesson 
being to teach him the word "whoa" — the most important word in 
horsemanship. You will proceed by stepping away from him, and, 
if he appears to trifle and not heed you, use the Camanche bridle, 
pulling upon him to warn him to attend to you. Practice this until 
he will allow you to walk away in any direction without moving him- 






28 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

self. Take a whip and crack it slightly, and if he moves, put him 
back as before, increasing the cracks of the whip until you accustom 
him to stand while the whip is being flourished, and also to throw 
him and apply the method of controlling a nervous horse. If you 
are obliged to drive him while you are trying to break him, do not 
use the word " whoa/' as he is not yet accustomed to minding it, and 
it will only make matters worse. Shift the position of the horse and 
repeat the lesson, putting on the harness and leading to places where 
he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and teach him to stand in those 
places, as well as teaching him to obey the word ' ' whoa' ' before hitch- 
ing him to carriage. Then hitch inside a building with the doors 
closed. Get in and out of the carriage, rattle the thills and shake 
the carriage, causing him to stand by means heretofore alluded to. If 
it appears that the habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind him, 
take him out of the thills and lead him around it, allowing him to 
examine it, and even eat oats out of a measure set in the carriage. 
Now take him out of doors, and if he renews his attempt to start, 
take him out of the thills and use the Camanche bridle, fetching him 
back between the thills, and say ' * Whoa. V You will by this means 
soon teach him that " whoa " means for him to stop and stand. For 
the sake of not undoing all you have done, remember the caution 
heretofore given to say " whoa " only when you mean him to stop. 

Horses Baulking. 

(See Engraving No. 7.) 
This is the most aggravating of all the habits to which the horse is 
subject ; it tries the patience of man to the utmost ; yet, by patience 
and perseverance, with proper management, even this habit can be 
broken up. It is rarely we find a baulky horse which is not a good 
one. They are usually very high spirited, quick of comprehension, 
and of a strong nervous temperament. They resist because we have 
failed to make them understand what we require of them, or it may 
occur from overloading sore shoulders, or working until tired out. 
Particularly is this the case with young animals. To whip under 
such circumstances only excites them to more determined resistance. 
On the first attempt of your horse to baulk, get out of the wagon, 
pat him upon the neck, examine the harness carefully, first upon 
one side, then upon the other, speaking encouragingly to the animal 
while doing so ; then jump in the wagon and give the word to go ; 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 31 

generally he will obey ; if he refuses to do so, take him out of the 
thills, put up the traces so that they do not drag upon the ground, 
then take him by the head and tail, reel him until he is almost ready 
to fall, then hook him up again and give him the word to go. This 
rarely fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them, and* they start at 
the word. 

I have failed but once in handling baulky horses, though I have 
handled a large number of them. By repeating the same operations 
every day for a week, usually breaks up this most perplexing habit 
thoroughly and permanently. 

Another method, which often proves successful to break a horse in 
double harness, is to take a hemp cord, pass around under the tail, 
bring forward through the terret-ring of the baulky horse and fasten 
to the ring of the other horse's collar or hame ; when the other horse 
starts, the baulky one can do no other way than move with him, 
which, in a short time, if the horse is hitched single or double, by 
taking your whip or any common stick and place on the backs of 
the crupper-strap, the horse will start readily. 

Throwing the Horse. 

(See Engraving No. 8). , 

The only practical method of throwing a horse is easy to the person 
handling the horse, and safe. The horse lays down quietly — almost 
as easy as when lying down by himself in the stall. To perform the 
work, procure a rope or any strap long enough to pass around the 
horse, and tie in a knot on the back with an iron ring, small size, tied 
fast ; pass the end of the strap or rope around under the tail for a 
crupper; bring the end back, fastening to the belt around the body; 
then take a small cord of sufficient strength to hold your heft; pass 
around the horse's neck ; tie in a knot that will not slip ; then pass 
the cord through the horse's mouth, and stroll back to the ring on 
the horse's back ; when that is accomplished, pass a strap around 
the near fore foot twice, and through the keeper, strapping the 
foot to the belt around the horse; when that is done, step back 
from the horse, taking hold of the small cord, pulling gently till 
you have the head to the side; then, with a quick pull, bring 
the horse to the ground, with bis knee to steady him as he falls. 
It can be done with ease and safety. Whatever may be the bad habit 
of your horse, it is a very good plan to give him a regular course 



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THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 33 

of training, and, by throwing a horse down, and handling him just 
as you please while down, demonstrates to the understanding of the 
animal that it is worse than useless to try to resist control. It is the 
best way we have ever found to handle nervous horses. After hand- 
ling gently while down they find they are not hurt, and get over their 
fear, and will allow you to do with them as you like anywhere. 

Pulling at Halter. 

(See Engraving No. 9.) 
Place on him a common halter head stall. Put on a common girth. 
Take a half -inch rope, about twenty feet long. Pass the centre of 
this rope under the tail in place of a crupper; twist the rope over a 
couple of times ; pass the end of the rope under the girth, bringing 
an end up on each side of the neck, and pass the ends through the 
nose-piece of the head-stall under the cheek-pieces, and tie to a stout 
ring or place, leaving about three feet play of rope. As soon as the 
horse falls back, being tied by the tail to the ring, he pulls upon 
the tail, and the hurt coming there instead of the head, where he 
expected it, he starts up, it being natural to go from the hurt. By 
giving him two or three lessons, making him fall by whipping him 
over the nose or exciting him with an object, he is afraid of the im- 
pression being made too strong, will not forget it, and the more so by 
repeating for one month, or more lessons at different times. 

To Break Horses from Jumping. 

(See Engraving No. 10.) 
Tie straps to the fore feet, below the knees, pass it up under a sur- 
cingle around fche body, and tie the other ends above the fetlock to 
straps inclosed in a ring, so one will go above, and the other below, the 
fetlock. You will see that when he attempts to jump a fence the 
fore foot Is drawn up under him, and, as he springs to leave the 
ground, the hind feet will be pulled up, and he will inevitably remain 
in the lot. The value of this plan is that it will in most instances 
cure a horse or cow of the habit. 

Pawing in Stall and Kicking of One Foot. 

Get a piece of chain ten inches in length, run a short strap through 
one of the end links and buckle it around the foot above the fetlock, or 










3 

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36 THE horseman's illustrated guide. 

a piece of light chain can be fastened to a single block, and attach it to 
the foot in the same manner. When the horse attempts to paw or kick, 
the clog or chain rattles against the foot and prevents a repetition of 
the practice. 

Cribbing Horses. 

The surest remedy of breaking a cribber is to trade him off. 

Lead Horse Behind Wagon. 

(See Engraving No. 11.) 
To lead a horse behind a wagon, take a stout cord or small Tope, 
and place under his tail, cross on the back, run through the rings of 
the halter; first hitch him to a post, and, by hitting him over the 
nose with something, or to excite him, make him pull, which will 
satisfy him of his useless attempts at holding back on the halter; 
then hitch him to the wagon, and you will find no trouble in riding 
home without the many inconveniences of leading. 

Kicking in Harness. 

(See Engraving No. 12.) 

Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, because of the 
danger incident to the use of such horses. It is well to remember 
that this habit is in most cases the result of carelessness or misman- 
agement. Proper attention is not given to the fitting of the harness; 
the straps dangle about the flanks of the colt, unacquainted with their 
nature, which frightens and causes him to kick. Or, what is more 
common, an old harness is used, and breaks at some unlucky moment, 
which frightens the colt, and he kicks as a means of self-defence, 
when his feet and legs, coming in contact with the whiffletree or 
cross-piece, causes him greater fright, and he becomes reckless, 
springs ahead in a frantic endeavor to free himself from his tor- 
mentor, until he tears himself loose, or is stopped after being wor- 
ried out with fright and exertion. Learning fear and resistance in 
this way, he becomes alarmed at the least indication of its repetition. 
This fear must be broken by familiarizing the horse with the cause 
of his fear, at a time when he is powerless to resist, and, when he 
finds there is no danger of harm, he will cease resistance. In the 
majority of cases this habit is broken by our means of control. 



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THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 39 

To break the kicking horse, you want to put him through a regular 
course of handling that will convince him of your ability to manage 
him just as you please, while at the same time you demonstrate to 
,his understanding that he cannot help himself, and must submit un- 
conditionally to your control. In the first place, then, give him a 
turn with the Camanche bridle, making him stop at the word 4 ' whoa ! " 
and come to you at the word. When he submits to that, proceed 
still further in convincing him oi your power and mastery by throw- 
ing him down. To do this, fasten up the near foreleg, as desciibed 
in " Handling the Feet/' Now put a strong surcingle, with a ring 
slipped on it, around the animal, and slip the ring to the right side of 
the horse, near the backbone. Now draw the end of your cord or 
Camanche bridle through the ring, bringing it over to the near side 
of the. animal; now take the halter out of the mouth, thus leaving a 
plain loop around the horse's neck; then take hold of your cord with 
the left hand and straighten it out. Now you have a plain double 
from the neck of the horse around to the ring on the right side ; you 
put this into the horse's mouth, and draw up the end of the cord with 
the right hand. Now you have him completely in your power; you 
can handle him as easily as a boy could a top. Now step back by his 
si'de with the cord grasped firmly in your hand, and say, " Lie down, 
sir, ' ' at the same time pulling steadily on the rope. His foot being fast- 
ened up, he is easily thrown off his balance. He will gradually settle 
down on to the knee of the near leg, when a quick pull will bring 
him over on his side. Now you have him down, use him gently; 
rub his head and neck, talk to him kindly, thus letting him know 
that your object is not to hurt him — that all you require is submis- 
sion, and that you possess the ability to enforce that. After letting 
him lie for a while, riiake him get upon three legs, let him stand a 
moment, then put him down again. While down, handle his feet 
and legs as you please, and so continue until he will lie still and sub- 
mit to you in everything you wish. Then take the strap off his leg 
and let him get up ; caress and rub his leg where the strap has been. 
Now put the harness on. Use a blind-bridle with a W bit (or some 
call it a double-joint bit), and, if you cannot obtain one at your har- 
ness maker's, go to a blacksmith and have one made. With this kind 
of a bit on your horse, you want to drive him around your yard, 
occasionally saying " Whoa," at the same time setting him back upon 
his haunches with the bit. In a very short time he will stop when 






40 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

you say " whoa," without any pull on the rein; then go up to him and 
caress him about the head and neck; then take your whip and switch 
him around the hind legs and flanks, lightly, and, if he shows a dis- 
position to kick or run, say " Whoa," sharply, at the same time correct 
with the bit. In your first lessons use the bit with severity, thus 
demonstrating to the horse your determination and ability to enforce 
obedience under any and all circumstances of resistance. When you 
can drive him around with a whip at a trot, and stop him at the word 
without using the rein, go to him again and pat and rub him to 
encourage him in well-doing. Then attach the long cord to your 
reins, and start him away from you at a trot, letting him go as far as 
the length of your cord will permit without pulling on the bit, when 
you will say ' ' Whoa. m If he stops, go up and caress him, and keep on 
in that way until he will stop and start at the word, no matter how 
far away he is, so long as he can hear your voice. After you have 
him so well in hand that he obeys readily and willingly, take the 
re'ins in your hand and learn him to back, encouraging him by kind- 
ness when he does right, and correcting with the bit when he shows 
the least intimation to be rebellious and stubborn. When he will 
back at the word, back him against your buggy-wheels, keeping an 
eye on his movements, and, if he shows fear and a disposition to get 
away from it, do not force him against it at first, but drive him 
around and up to it, letting him smell and examine it until he becomes 
satisfied it is not going to hurt him ; then back him up to it again — 
right back against it. — and if he is disposed to kick, say "Whoa," 
sharply, at the same time giving him a short, quick jerk with the rein. 
By this treatment he finds that you still have the same power in your 
hands that has already controlled him so completely and easily; 
therefore, he submits unconditionally. Yoir -can now proceed to 
hitch him up ; watch him closely, and if anything should excite him 
momentarily, and he should manifest a desire to repeat his old habit, 
say " Whoa," and if he does not obey instantly, set him back with the 
bit in a manner that shall leave no doubt of your ability to control 
him at will. If handled in this way for a few times, he becomes con- 
vinced of the uselessness of resistance, and careful management for 
two or three weeks will radically break the worst horse of this kind 
we ever saw. People have often expressed wonder at our success in 
managing kicking and runaway horses. The simple laws of Nature 
are to such unworthy of reflection, except the submission of the ani- 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 41 

mal, the control is looked upon as the result of a peculiar gift. But 
we do control them perfectly and thoroughly by the word ' • whoa. " In 
breaking to the word, we use means that compel obedience. If your 
horse minds the word quickly and stops at your bidding, he is not 
going to do you or himself any damage by kicking; for if you stop 
him whenever the old habit is brought to mind, and let him stand 
until the excitement is over, he will have no incentive for kicking, 
and in a short time will forget the habit altogether. So with 

The Runaway Horse. 

Handle with the Camanche bridle, and by throwing the same as 
the kicking horse in harness, unless the habit is caused by fear of 
some object, such as an umbrella, buffalo robe, or anything else that 
may frighten him and cause him to run away; if that should be the 
case, when you have him down take the frightful object — whatever it 
may be — around him, throw it on to him, at the same time rub and 
caress him: let him know it is nothing that will hurt him; then let 
him up; put it on or over him, rub him with it; and in that way 
familiarize him with it until he cares nothing about it. Then train 
him in harness until he will mind the word " whoa. ' ' Make him run, 
and if he does not stop at the word, stop him by the bit so suddenly 
as to disconcert him and destroy his confidence completely. 

Although we have given a powerful means of coercion, and of 
impressing the horse of his inability to resist the power of man, still, 
practical and thorough as those means are, they are of but little 
account if not used with prudence and judgment. Men are too apt 
to depend upon main strength and stupid harshness for success in the 
management of horses. And with equal stupidity, the basis of con- 
trol we have here given may be made in the hands of some a power 
to be abused with reckless disregard of consequences. Be firm, per- 
severing and prudent in the exercise of your power when it is neces- 
sary to impress your subject with a sense of mastery ; but be gentle, 
attractive and affectionate when he is obedient and submissive. Tram 
your horse thoroughly with the Camanche bridle each time before 
hitching up. We find by experience that horses subject to bad habits 
are ungovernable in the mouth. If we govern the mouth well, we 
have, in almost every instance, a good control of the horse; and it is 
an important requisite, under all circumstances, in the control of 
horses in harness. Then control while driving, until thorough and 






42 the horseman's illustrated guide. 

certain obedience is insured to the word. Strive to tell your horse 
exactly what you want him to do, and do not confuse him by attach- 
ing different meanings to the same word. It is quite common to say 
"whoa " when it is intended to go slower, or to attract the attention of 
the horse when standing, to let him know of your presence. Now, if 
anything should happen, and you wished him to stop suddenly, Jie 
would not be likely to mind without a pull at the bit; and why 
should he, as long as he has been learned, in that haphazard way, 
that " whoa " meant anything and nothing at the same, time? Such 
training confuses the horse so mucH that, though he is naturally obe- 
dient and tractable, h,e will become careless and obstinate. Have a 
distinct word for every command, and make him understand that 
every command must be obeyed. Speak in a natural tone of voice to 
your horse uncier all circumstances. Nothing confuses a horse more 
than screaming at him to have him hear. He is as acute in the sense 
of hearing as a man, and so sensitive, if nervous, as to have his pulse 
increased from six to ten beats a minute by one harsh word. Have 
your horse understand that things likely to frighten are harmless, and 
be sure not to whip for being frightened. If your horse is frightened 
at anything approaching, let him st^nd until it passes, but hold the 
reins snug and firmly, or he may swing round and upset you. If cars 
are passing, and are regarded with fear, let your ho?se face them, but 
hold him immovable with the reins. Always, under such circum- 
stances, talk encouragingly to him, remembering the slower you 
move him the more power you have over him. There is but little 
danger of a horse kicking after being stopped or while moving 
slowly, and so with the runaway. He will seldom make a second 
attempt at the time he has been foiled and stopped. A horse fright- 
ened becomes reckless; consequently, never raise an umbrella sud-' 
denly or unexpectedly behind a horse afraid of such things. First 
raise it at his head and gradually carry it back, and then, to make 
sure* if you have not a, bit that will control your horse easily,. put on 
a Camanche bridle and carry it back in the wagon or buggy. Fear 
and anger is something that a good horseman should never exhibit in 
his countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon 
learns to take advantage of such indications to become careless, or, 
excited by anger," may become aggressive or unmanageable. Let 
your lessons be thorough, but not very long. Be gentle and patient 
with the colt, but make the willful, stubborn horse feel the full 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 43 

extent of your power. Make the old reprobate know that the only 
alternative is unconditional submission to your will; though, if he 
should become too much heated and excited, it is prudent to stop, 
and repeat the lesson at some future time ; but repeat until there is 
thorough and unconditional submission. After a horse submits, let 
your treatment be characterized by gentleness and good nature. 

Bridle to Ride a Wild Horse. 

(See Engraving No. 13.) 

To. Drive a Colt before being Harnessed. 

(See Engraving No. 14.) 

Place on him a Bonaparte bridle, with the cord eighteen or twenty 
feet long, driving him around you in a circle, first one way, then 
reverse and drive the other, your rope acting as a lead ana 4 drive- 
rein ; stopping him at the word ' ' whoa," and starting him by the usual 
word, until he will stop and start at the word of command; then 
place the lines in the tug-strap, and drive carefully around the yard. 

To make a Horse Turn his Body when he Turns 

his Head. 

(See Engraving No. 15.) 

Place the lines in the shaft-straps, dropping them around his quar- 
ters, when, by turning his head, you can force him to turn his body; 
and, after a few lessons, when you pull on the reins, the body will 
give freely with the head. 

To Break a Horse of Kicking at its Mate in a Stall. 

(See Engraving No. 16.) 

Put on the Bonaparte bridle, with the small loop on the lower jaw, 
letting the cord pass back to the hind leg. Attach it to a small ring, 
fastened around the leg, with two hame straps above and below the 
gambol joint. 

To Break a Horse of Kicking at Persons Entering 

the Stall. 

(See Engraving No. 17.) 
Put on the Bonaparte bridle, making a loop around the lower jaw; 




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THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 47 

pass it up over the head, and down through the loop on the jaw. 
Run the cord through a small ring, fastened by means of a staple to 
the side of the stall, a little back of the horse's head. Pass the cord 
back to another ring fastened in the side of tfye front of the stall. 
When you enter the stall pull on this rope, and, at the same time, 
say, "Go over." The head of the horse will be thus drawn towards 
you, and his heels must go to the other side of the stall. Most horses 
will be broken of this very dangerous habit in two or three lessons. 

Luggers on the Bit. 

Buckle a pair of straps about twelve inches long, with a ring at 
one end, and a buckle at the other, to the check-piece, and let the 
straps pass through the rings on either side of the bit; buckle the 
lines to the rings on these straps, instead of the rings on the bit ; this 
forms a gag similar to the French twitch gag, and is a powerful 
means of controlling the mouth of a hard-pulling horse. Also place 
a haine-strap around the nose, so they cannot open the mouth. 

To Harden a Tender-Mouthed Horse. 

Place the bits in the animal's mouth as low as possible, not to have 
them drop out, and drive him from two to three weeks with the bits 
in this way, and when they are buckled up in proper place he is hard- 
mouthed. 

Lolling the Tongue. 

Some horses have the habit of carrying the tongue out of the side 
of the mouth. This is generally confined to a narrow-jawed horse. 
The space between the molar teetfe being too narrow to contain the 
tongue in the mouth when the bit presses upon it, without coming 
in contact with the edges of the molar teeth. To prevent this, the 
tongue is thrown out over the bit, and hangs from one side of the 
mouth. To remedy this defect, take a common bar-bit, and drill* a 
a hole on either side, about three-quarters of an inch from the centre 
of the upper surface of the bit; then take a piece of sole leather, 
four inches long and two inches wide, sprinkle it over with rosin and 
burn it into the leather. This renders it proof against the action of 
the saliva in the mouth. Drill two holes in the centre of the leather, 
corresponding with those in the bit, and secure both together by 






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50 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

rivets, so that the leather extends two inches above the bit, and two . 
inches below it. This put in the mouth keeps the tongue down 
clear of the molar teeth, and prevents the animal getting it over 
the bit. 

Hugging the Pole. 

This is a great annoyance to the other horse, and he will probably 
learn to do the same thing, not from imitation, but from leaning 
inwards, so as to enable him to stana against the other horse leaning 
upon him. This habit may be broken up by securing a piece of sole 
leather to the pole upon the side where the animal leans, having a 
number cf tacks driven through it in such a manner as to protrude 
from the leather towards the horse. 



Ugly to Bridle. 

Some horses are ugly to bridle, from having l^een knocked, or 
roughly handled, about the head. Horses are occasionally troubled 
with tender ears, and have some tenderness about the mouth; such 
animals refuse to be bridled from fear of being hurt; nothing but 
kindness and careful handling will accomplish our purpose. In such 
cases, where the habit arises from previous injuries, or from ugliness 
of disposition, take a cord, put the end in the mouth, draw it tightly 
and take a half -hitch : this confines the head and prevents the animal 
from raising it. In this position the horse will allow you to put on 
and take off the bridle at pleasure. After putting it on, remove it 
several times, unloose the cord and repeat the bridling. Every time 
the animal resists draw the cord tightly. 



To Educate a Horse not to Get Cast in the Stall. 

(See Engraving No. 18.) 

Drive a staple in the ceiling over the manger at the side of the 
stall, then another in the ceiling in the center of the stall over the 
horse' s head ; pass a small cord through the staple at the side of the stall ; 
tie a horseshoe, or the weight of a horseshoe, so that the cord will 
riot draw through the staple ; then put the cord through the staple in 
the center of the stall, bring it down within two and a half feet of 



52 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

the floor, and cut it off, attaching a snap to the end; place a ring in 
the halter at the top of the head, in the center. Now, when his head 
raises up, the weight comes down; when his mouth is on the floor 
he can lie down with ease, but he cannot get the top of his head 
to the floor: and, if he cannot get the top of his head to the floor, he 
cannqt roll; and, if he cannot roll, he cannot get cast. This remedy 
is as simple as it is certain, and is always perfectly safe. 

The only Practical Way to get a Horse up that 
Throws Himself. 

(See Engraving No. 19.) 

Practical Method of Giving a Horse Medicine. 

(See Engraving No. 20.) 

Horse Bad to Catch. 

(See Engraving No.21.) 

First use Camanche bridle, as applied in breaking wild colt, then 
adopt the plan as shown in the engraving. 

To Educate Colt or Horse not to be Afraid of his 

Heels. 

(See Engraving No. 22.) 

This method should be applied to all young horses when breaking 
to harness. 

Horses Afraid of the Cars. 

(See Engraving No. 23.) 

Place on the horse the bridle seen in the engraving, or you may 
place a strap over the head and through the mouth, and buckle tight, 
which, by pressing on the brain, will bring the horse to subjection. 
By either one of these instruments you may lead the horse up to tl*e 
cars, being careful to caress him, and give him confidence that you 
are his friend. Be sure not to have rope or strap on too long. As he 
shows less fear lessen the punishment; and in two or three lessons 
you can drive him with safety about the cars. 






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58 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

Sure Way of making a Horse Bad to Catch, 

(See Engraving No. 34.) 

To Break a Horse to Trot which is a Pacer. 

(See Engraving No. 25.) 

Take four hame-straps, two on each hind leg, with a ring attacl 
on the front of the J eg to both straps; also place on each front leg 
a strap just below the knees ; then place on the horse a leather surcin- 
gle, fastening a strap from the nigh front leg to the hind off one, cross- 
ing them under the belly ; now commence to drive your horse slowly, 
as the new action may cause him to stumble; continue to increase his 
movement, and in a few moments you will have the pleasure of seeing 
your pacer trot. 

To Break Single-footed Horse to Trot Square. 

(See Engraving No. 26.) 

Put on straps as seen in engraving, moving slow at first, and, by the 
time 3 r ou have gone half a mile, your horse, at his full rate of speed, 
will be trotting square. Continue to exercise for a number of times, 
till your horse has got confidence in himself; also, be careful not to 
drive a horse of this class with too much weight or load behind him. 

To Break Horse Afraid of Umbrella or Buffalo Robe. 

(See Engraving No. 27.) • 

Place on the horse bridle (as seen in engraving 23, for cars) of 
straps explained. Present the umbrella or buffalo-robe, allowing him 
to smell of it ; then rub it across his nose and head ; open it gently, 
at the same time allow him to smell of it several times; work gently 
till he becomes reconciled to it, and in a few lessons you will be able 
to use the umbrella in any place around him. 

Horse Bad to Gforoom. 

(See Engraving No. 28.) 

Put on the bridle seen in the engraving, standing at his side with 
the cord in your hand; with the other hand use the curry-comb or 
brush ; if he should kick or resist, you pull quickly on the cord, at the 



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64 THE HORSEMAN S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

same time using the word " whoa. " If he remains quiet, caress him, 
and after a little, by patient and kind words, he will know you do not 
wish to hurt him, and submit patiently. It may be necessary to use 
the cord a number of times before a thorough cure is accomplished. 



To Break a Horse that Kicks when he gets the 
Line under his Tail. 

(See Engraving No. 29.) 

Lay the horse down, and, by applying a rope or strap around the 
tail (as seen in engraving), working back and forth for a number of 
lessons, you get the nervousness out, and he cares nothing for the line. 

To Break any Horse of Switching his Tail. 

(See Engraving No. 30.) 

Place on the horse (as seen in the engraving) a collar and names. 
Then turn over the tail on the back, fastened with a cord so that it can- 
not slip, passing the ends down through the lower name-rings, pulling 
the tail down on the back, snug and tight, and fastening to the name- 
rings. Then place on the horse a common surcingle to hold the cords 
in their proper places, turning the horse out in a close yard or barn 
floor, and let him or her kick or do as they please for nine hours or 
more, according to the strength of cord in the tail ; and at the end of 
that time you may untie the tail, and have no fears of switching 
any more. 

Ladies 5 Equestrian Horsemanship. 

(See Engraving No. 31). 

The saddlery for the use of the ladies is similar in principle to 
that devoted to gentleman's riding, with the exception that the 
bits and reins of the bridle are lighter and more ornamental, and the 
saddle furnished with crutches for side-riding; the reins are narrower 
than those used by gentlemen, but v otherwise the same. The saddle 
should be carefully fitted to the horse, and there should always be a 
third crutch, the use of which will hereafter be explained. There is 
an extra leather girth, which keeps the flaps of the saddle in their 






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TO BREAK ANY HORSE OF SWITCHING HIS TAIL. 






68 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

places. The stirrup may either be like a man's with a lining of 
leather or velvet, or it may be a slipper, which is safer, and also 
easier to the foot. The lady's whip is a light affair, but, as her horse 
ought seldom to require punishment, it is carried more to threaten 
than to give punishment. A spur may be added for a lady's use; 
it is sometimes needful for the purpose of giving a stimulus at the 
right moment. If used, it is buckled on to the boot, and a small 
opening is made in the habit, with a string attached to the inside, 
which is then tied around the ankle, and thus keeps the spur always 
projecting beyond the folds of the habit. A nose-martingale is 
generally added for ornament; but no horse which throws his head 
up is fit for a lady's use. The lady's horse ought to be. a most per- 
fect goer, instead of being, as it often is, a stupid brute, fit only 
for a dray. 

Many men think that any horse gifted with a neat outline will 
carry a lady; but it is a great mistake; and if the ladies themselves 
had the choice of horses, they would soon decide to the contrary. 
The only thing in their favor, in choosing a lady's horse, is that the 
weight to be carried is generally light, and therefore a horse calcu- 
lated to cany them is seldom fit to mount a man, because the weight 
of the male sex is generally so much above that of an equestrian 
lady. Few of this sex who ride are above one hundred and thirty 
pounds, and most are below that weight. But in point of soundness, 
action, mouth and temper, the lady's horse should be unimpeach- 
able. A gentleman's horse may be good yet wholly unable to canter, 
and so formed that he cannot be taught: he, therefore, is unsuited to 
a lady; but on the other hand, every lady's horse should do all his 
paces well. Many ladies, it is true, never trot ; but they should not 
be furnished with the excuse that they cannot because their horses 
will not. In size, the lady's horse should be about fifteen hands or 
from fourteen and a half to fifteen and a half; less than this allows 
the habit to trail in the dirt, and more, makes the horse too lofty and 
unwieldy for a lady's use. In breaking the lady's horse, if he is of 
good temper and fine mouth, little need be done to make him canter 
easily, and with the right leg foremost. This is necessary, because 
the other leg is uncomfortable to the rider from her side position on 
the saddle ; the breaker, therefore, should adopt the means elsewhere 
described, and persevere until the horse is quite accustomed to the 
pace, and habitually starts off with the right leg. He should also 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 69 

bend him thoroughly, so as to make him canter well on his hind 
legs, and not with the disturbed action which one so often sees. The 
curb must be used for this purpose, but without bearing too strongly 
upon it ; the horse must be brought to his paces by fine handling 
rather than by force, and by occasional pressure, which he will yield 
to and play with if allowed, rather than by a dead pull. In this 
way, by taking advantage of every inch yielded, and yet not going 
too far, the head is gradually brought in and the hind legs as gradu- 
ally are thrust forward, so as instinctively to steady the mouth and 
prevent the pressure which is feared. When this "sitting on the 
haunches" is accomplished, a horse-cloth may be strapped on the 
near side of the saddle, to accustom him to the flapping of the habit; 
but I have always found, in an ordinarily good-tempered horse, 
that if the paces and mouth were all perfect, the habit is sure to 
be borne. 

It is a kind of excuse which gentlemen are too apt to make, that 
their horses have never carried a lady ; but if they will carry a gentle- 
man quietly, they will always carry a lady in the same style, though 
they may not perhaps be suitable to her seat or hand. The directions 
for holding the reins, and for their use, elsewhere given, apply equally 
well to ladies; the only difference being that the knee prevents the 
hand being lowered to the pommel of the saddle. This is one reason 
why the neck requires to be more bent for the gentleman's use, 
because, if it is straight, or at all ewe-necked, the hands being high 
raise the head into the air, and make the horse more of a " star gazer" 
than he otherwise would be. Many ladies hold the reins as in driving. 
It is in some respects better, because it allows the hand to be lower 
than the gentleman' s mode, and the ends of the reins fall better over 
the habit. !n mounting, the horse is held steadily, as for a gentle- 
man's use, taking care to keep him well up to the place where the 
lad)' stands, from which he is very apt to slide away. The gentle- 
man assistant then places his right hand on his right knee, or a little 
below it, and receives the lady's left foot. Previously to this she 
should have taken the rein in her right hand, which is placed on the 
middle crutch; then with her left on the gentleman's shoulder, and 
her foot in his hand, she makes a spring from the ground, and im- 
mediately stiffens her left leg, using his hand, steadied by his knee. 
as a second foundation for a spring ; and then she is easily lifted 



70 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

to her seat by the hand following and finishing her spring with what 
little force is required. As she rises, the hand still keeps hold of the 
crutch, which throws the body sideways on the saddle, and then she 
lifts her right knee over the middle crutch. After this, she lifts her- 
self up from the saddle, and the gentleman draws her habit from 
under her until smooth; he then places her left foot in the stirrup, 
including with it a fold of her habit, and she is firmly seated, and 
should take her reins, and use them as directed for the gentleman. 
The great mistake which is constantly made in mounting is in the 
use of the lady's knee, which should be carefully straightened the 
moment it can be effected ; for if kept bent it requires a great power 
to lift a lady into the saddle, whereas, with a good spring and a 
straight knee, she ought to weigh but a few pounds in the hand. 

The lady's seat is very commonly supposed to be a weak one, and to 
depend entirely upon balance, but this is the greatest possible mistake; 
and there can be no doubt from what is seen in private, as well as in 
the circus, that it requires as great an effort of the horse to dislodge a 
good female rider, as to produce the same effect upon a gentleman. 
Even with the old single crutch, there was a good hold with the leg, 
but noAv that the third is added, the grip is really a firm one. When 
this is not used, the crutch is laid hold of by the right leg, and 
pinched between the calf of the leg and the thigh, so as to afford a 
firm and steady hold for the whole body, especially when aided by 
the stirrups. But this latter support merely preserves the balance, 
and is useful also in trotting; it does not at all give a firm, steady 
seat, though it adds to one already obtained by the knee. When two 
crutches are used, the leg is brought back so far as to grasp the 
crutch as before, but between .the two knees the two crutches are 
firmly laid hold of, the upper one being under the right knee, and 
the lower one above the left. The right knee hooked over the crutch 
keeps the body from slipping backwards, whilst the left keeps it 
from a forward motion, and thus the proper position is maintained. 
In all cases the right foot should be kept back, and the point of the 
toe should scarcely be visible. These points should be carefully 
kept in view by all lady riders, and they should learn as soon as 
possible to steady themselves by this grasp of the crutches without 
reference to the stirrup-iron. In spite of her side-seat, the body 
should be square to the front, with the elbow easily bent and pre- 
served in its proper position by the same precaution. The whip is 






THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 71 

generally held in the right hand, with the lash pointing forward, and 
towards the left, and by this posi.ion it may be used on any part of 
the horse's body by reaching over to the left and cutting before or 
behind the saddle, or with great case on the right side. Its use may, 
therefore, in all cases be substituted for the pressure of the leg in the 
description of the modes of effecting the change of leg, turning to 
the left or right, or leading with either leg. With this substitution, 
and with the caution against all violent attempts at coercion, which 
are better carried out by the fine hand and delicate tact of the lady, 
.all the feats which man can perform may well be imitated by her. 
In dismounting, the horse is brought to a dead stop, and his head 
held by an assistant; the lady then turns her knee back again from 
the position between the outside crutch, takes her foot out of the 
stirrup, and sits completely sideways; she then puts her left hand on 
the gentleman's shoulder, who places his right arm around her waist, 
and lightly assists her to the ground. 

To Cure a Cow of Kicking while being Milked. 

(See Engraving No. 32.) 

First tie secure to a post or in the stable. Then place on the cow a 
Bonaparte bridle (as seen in the engraving), j)assing the rope around 
one leg, and tying to the other, on the side which you sit down to 
milk at; then take a pole and touch your cow lightly, making her 
kick a few times, which will punish her in the mouth ; and, after a 
few lessons of this kind, it never fails to radically cure them. In 
breaking young cows, use them gently, never using harsh language 
or a loud voice; and only in willful, stubborn cows will it be neces- 
sary to use the cord, and even then only use with the hand. Punish 
them when they do wrong, and caress them gently when they do right. 

To Lead a Cow or Steer behind a Wagon. 

(See Engraving No. 33.) 
Place on the cow a Bonaparte bridle, and give them a jerk to the 
right or left a few times; then place on them a rope halter; then take 
a small strong cord, eighteen or twenty feet long, divide in the mid- 
dle, and place under the tail ; bring each end through the halter and 
tie to the wagon, get in and go along, and when you get home you 
will find the cow where vou hitched her. 




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74 the horseman's illustrated guide. 

To Make a Cow Let Down her Milk. 

(See Engraving No. 34.) 

Practical Result of Making a Cow Let Down her 

Milk. 

(See Engraving No. 35.) 

To procure the above results, it will be necessary to use from fifty 
to sixty pounds weight. 

Horse Bad to Shoe. 

(See Engraving No. 36.) 

The habit of resistance to being shod, or allowing the feet to be 
handled, like all others to which horses are subject, is the result of 
hasty and imprudent harshness. It would seem, from the reckless 
disregard of consequences so generally evinced in handling young 
horses, as though man doubted his own reason, and would not take 
counsel of the teachings of prudence. If the feet had been handled 
gently at first, and blacksmiths had not vented so much of their 
vexation in the way of pounding with the hammer for every little 
movement of resistance in shoeing, this habit would never have been 
contracted. The natural tractability of the horse causes him to yield 
a ready obedience to all reasonable demands that he comprehends. 
If the feet are jerked up roughly, and without an effort to reconcile 
him to being handled, the colt will strive to get away or free himself 
from what he supposes will hurt him. Never hold to the foot with 
all your might when the colt is trying to jerk it away, for in such a 
case strength is not your forte, and your struggles only convince the 
horse of your weakness. Handle the horse in conformity with the 
laws of his nature, so as not to excite resistance through fear of 
injury. If the horse does not very much resist the handling of his 
feet, put the Camanche bridle on him and put a short strap on his 
hind foot. Pulling upon the strap will bring the foot forward, and 
he will probably resist by kicking. The instant he kicks, reprove 
with the Camanche bridle, which is held in the other hand and so 
continue until the foot is submitted without resistance. But if your 
subject is very bad, take a strap or rope about twelve feet long, and 
tie one end of it in a loop around his neck where the collar rests ; pass 







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78 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

the other end back between the fore legs and around the near hind 
leg below the fetlock ; thence back between the legs and through the 
loop around the neck. Now step in front of the horse and take a 
firm hold of the rope or strap, and give a quick pull upon it, which 
will bring the foot forward. If the horse is bad, pull the foot as far 
forward as you can, which will give you the more advantage. The 
horse will try to free the foot by kicking. Hold the head firmly with the 
left hand, and with the other hold the strap firmly. Stand right up 
to the horse's shoulder and whirl him about you, which you can easily 
do while he struggles to free himself. As soon as be yields, handle 
the foot gently, and then let up on it a little, and so continue 
until he will let you handle the foot without resistance. It 
may be necessary to repeat the lesson once or twice, and be careful 
to handle the foot with the greatest gentleness. 

If your rope is rough, put a collar on the neck instead of the loop, 
and fasten your strap to it. Use a smooth, soft strap, so as not to 
chafe the foot where it passes around it. 

Shoeing. 

If we examine the horse's foot while in the natural state it will be 
found to be almost round and very elastic at the heel, the frog broad, 
plump, and of a soft, yielding character ; the commissures open and 
well defined, the sole concave ; the outside crust from the heel to the 
toe increased from a slight bevel to an angle of forty-five degrees ; 
consequently, as the foot grows it becomes wider and longer in pro- 
portion to the amount of horn secreted, and narrower and shorter in 
proportion to the ground surface. If a shoe were fitted nicely and 
accurately to the foot after being dressed down well, it would be 
found too narrow and short for the same foot after a lapse of a few 
weeks. Now, if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed firmly to this 
naturally enlarging and elastic hoof, it prevents its natural freedom 
of expansion almost wholly, and does not allow the foot to grow 
wider at the quarters as it grows down, in proportion to the amount 
of horn grown, as before shod; consequently, the foot is changed by 
the continued restraint of the shoe from a nearly round, healthy foot 
to a contracted and unhealthy condition, as generally seen in horses 
shod for a few years. 

The principles which should govern in shoeing are few and simple, 
and it is surprising, considering the serious consequences involved, 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 79 

that it should be done with so little consideration. The object of the 
shoer should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, 
to keep the foot natural, and this involves, first, the cutting away of 
any undue accumulation of horn, affecting in the least its health and 
freedom; second, to carry out in the shape of the shoe that of the 
foot as nearly as possible; third, to fit and fasten the shoe to the 
foot so. as least to interfere with its health, growth and elasticity. 
The preparation of the foot requires the cutting away of about the 
proportion of horn which, coming in contact with the ground, would 
have worn off, or which has accumulated since being shod last. If 
the shoes have been on a month, the proportion of horn that was 
secreted in that time is to be removed. If two months, then the pro- 
portion of two months' growth. No definite rule can be given; the 
judgment must be governed by the circumstances of the case. The 
stronger and more rapid the growth of the foot, the more must be 
cut away ; and the weaker and less horn produced the less to the 
extremity of simply leveling the crust a little, the better to conform 
to the shoe. There is generally a far more rapid growth of horn at 
the toe than at the heels or the quarters; more will be required to be 
taken off there than off the other parts. Therefore, shorten the toe 
and lower the heels until you succeed in bringing down the bearing 
surface of the hoof upon the shoe to almost a level with the live 
horn of the sole. Be careful to make the heels level. Having low- 
ered the crust to the necessary extent with the buttress or knife, 
smooth it down level with the rasp. The sole and frog detach by 
exfoliation as it becomes superabundant. The sole, therefore, would 
not need paring were it not for the restraining effect of the shoe 
upon the general functions of the foot, which is liable to prevent 
such detachment of the horn. We would be particular, also, in im- 
pressing the necessity of not confounding the bars with the substance 
of the sole, and setting them down to the common level with the 
sole. Any man of common sense can see that the bearing of the bars 
should be equal to the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that 
they offer a decided resistance to the contraction of the heels. The 
cutting -away of the bars to give the heels an open appearance is 
inexcusable, and should never be done. In a natural, healthy condi- 
tion, the frog has a line of bearing with the hoof, and, by its elastic 
nature, acts as a safeguard to the delicate machinery of the foot 
immediately over it, and helps to preserve the foot in its natural state 






80 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

by keeping the heels spread. It seems to be wisely intended to give 
life and health to the toot. Permitting the heels to grow down, with 
the addition of high-heeled shoes, raises the frog from its natural 
position and eauses it to shrink and harden, and bears, in eonse- 
quenee. an important influence in setting up a diseased action that 
usually results in contraction of the foot. If the heels are square 
and high, and the hoof presents rather a long, narrow appearance, 
and is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of contraction going on, 
and you must not hesitate to dress down thoroughly. Do not hesi- 
tate because the foot will appear small. Cut away until you are well 
down to a level with the line horn of the sole, and, if the foot is weak, 
use the same prudeuce in not cutting it away too much. The shoer 
must always bear in mind that the sole must not rest on the shoe. 
Let the foot be so dressed down, and the shoe so approximate, that 
the beariug will come evenly upon the crust a around with- 

out the sole touching the shoe. This requires the crust to be dress 

, and. although well down to the live horu of the sole, it should 

always be left a little higher. The corners between the bars and 

crust should be well pared out. so that there is no danger of the sole 

lie shoe. Presuming that we li: enough on the 

subject of paring, we will now consider 

The Shoe. 

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size, 

ombine the most advar 
ction and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In 
weight it should be proportioned to the work or employment of the 
The foot should not be loaded with more iron than is neces- 
to preserve it. If the hoof is light, the shoe should be light also; 
but if the horse work principally on the road, his shoes should be 
rather heavy. In its natural state, the 1 concave sole sur- 

face, which seems to offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the 
se when traveling. Most of the shoes now in use by intelligent 
fashioned on this principle: and, aside from the advantage 
ad strength, they are considered to be an improvement 
iiimon fla H. Dadd. veterinary surgeon, said 

rag: " The action of concave feet maybe 
the nails on the fingers and 
The nails and toes are the fulcrum; they grasp, as it 



THE HOBSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 81 

were, the bodies with which they come in contact, and thus they 
secure a fulcrum of resistance when traveling or grasping. " Now, in 
order to preserve the natural mechanical action of the horn and sole, 
the ground surface of the shoe must correspond exactly with the 
ground surface of the foot ; that is to say, the ground surface of the 
shoe must be leveled cup-fashion; its outer edge being prominent, 
corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the hoof, while the shoe, 
being hollow, it resembles the natural concave form of the sole of 
the foot. 

No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether it be high or 
low heeled, contracted at the heels, lengthened or shortened at the 
toe, or having a concave or convex sole, it matters not; the ground 
surface of the shoe must be concave. In every other part of the shoe 
alterations and deviations from any given rule or form are needed, in 
consequence of the ever varying form of the foot and the condition of 
the same, both as regards health and disease, but the sole of the foot, 
being concave, presents a pattern for the ground surface of the shoe, 
which the smith, T>ith all his skill, cannot improve on; and, if all 
such craftsmen were to follow this pattern more closely than they do. 
there would be fewer accidents in falling, and a less number of lame 
horses. The shoe should be of equal thickness all the way round, 
perfectly level on the top side, and concave on the ground surface. 

We cannot see the propriety, as given by a standard author, of 
seating all shoes alike, and of carrying them well back at the heel. 

; ng appears to be necessary only for the flat-footed horses, or the 
inside edge of the shoe must be lowered from the possible bearing of 

sole, and enough to run the picker around between the shoe and 
hoof, to remove any gravel or foreign matter that may find a lodg- 
ment between them. If there is much space between the shoe and 
sole, it invites accumulation of gravel and other substances injurious 
to the foot. 

If the seating is carried well back, and the shoe is wide at the heels, 
instead of bearing on a level surface as they should, come down upon 
this inclined plane, it tends to crowd them together. If the shoe is 
not wide in web, and the foot strong and arched, it may be made per- 
fectly level on top. At all events, that portion upon which rests the 

- and crust should be level and accurately fitted. The shoe should 
be continued around toward the heel so far as the crust extends, as 
large as the fall unrasped hoof, but no part must project beyond it, 



82 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

excepting at the extreme of the heel. The expansion of the heel 
and growth of the foot requires that the shoe should be' long enough 
and wide enough at the heels to allow for the natural growth of the 
foot during the time the shoe is expected to remain on the foot; for, 
as the foot grows, the shoe is drawn forward, until it loses its original 
proportion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be a 
quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme bearing of the 
heels, and tjie nail holes should be punched coarse and in the centre 
of the web. In the hind shoe, four in the outside and two or three 
well forward in the inside toe, as found necessary to retain the shoe. 

The manner of fastening the shoe is what really affects the foot, 
and what requires the most special attention in shoeing; for the foot, 
being elastic, expands in the same proportion on the rough as on the 
nicely-fitted shoe. It is the number and position of the nails that 
really affect the foot. If they are placed well back in the quarters, 
four on a side, as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this unyield- 
ing shoe as if in a vice, which utterly prevents the free action neces- 
sary to its health. Inflammation of the sensitive laminse is produced, 
which causes contraction and the consequent derangement of the 
whole foot. 

If the free, natural expansion of the foot and the spreading of the 
quarters in proportion to the growth of the hoof is prevented by the 
nailing of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the 
crust and coffin bone will result, and ultimately create so much dis- 
eased action of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular dis- 
ease. SJioes may be securely fastened without causing such mischief, 
if the following method of nailing is observed : ' ' Drive four nails on 
the outside of the foot the same as common, while you drive two or 
three well forward in the toe of the opposite side, which leaves the 
inside quarter virtually free and independent of the shoe, for the out- 
side of the foot, being the only part fastened, carries ttie shoe with it 
at every expansion, while the inside, being unattached, expands inde- 
pendently of it, and the foot is left as nearly as possible in a state of 
nature so far as its powers of expansion are concerned. It may be 
asked* will this style of nailing hold shoes on the feet of horses of all 
work? We answer, yes; experience has fully demonstrated that 
seven nails will hold the shoe on ordinary feet for any purpose, if the 
shoes are properly fitted, for a period of from four to seven weeks, 
which is as long as shoes should be on without re-setting. If shoes 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 83 

are made with little clips, to keep them from being shoved back under 
the foot, they will require less nailing. If seven nails are found to 
be necessary, have the three on the inside drove in the space of an 
inch and a quarter, well forward in the toe, though in most cases two 
will be found sufficient for the purpose. Turn down the clinchers 
snugly. Nothing should be done for what might be called " fancy." 
The hoof should never be filed or rasped above the clinches, as the 
hoof is covered by a peculiar enamel that prevents the too rapid evap- 
oration of moisture from the horn, and ought not to be disturbed. 
The practice of rasping, filing or sandpapering the hoof to make it 
look nice, only produces mischief, and should never be allowed 
Horses kept for light driving and irregular work — particularly those 
having rather square, upright heels — should be shod on the one-sided 
nailing principle, as the feet of such horses are much disposed to 
contraction. So far as observation and experience teaches us, we 
find proper attention to paring down the feet and fastening the shoes 
so as not to interfere with the free expansion of the hoof (as above) 
will remedy contraction; though attention to growing down the crust, 
and the use of shoes that are slightly convex or leveled out, so as to 
have a tendency to spread the heels when the weight of the body is 
thrown upon the foot, and fastening on the principle of the inside 
quarter being left free, is regarded as much better: but the blacksmith 
must be a good workman to fashion and fit a shoe in this way prop- 
erly. The nails should not be driven higher in the crust than seven - 
eighths of an inch, and not so deep as to possibly strike through to 
the quick. If the foot is light, and shows a thin, delicate crust, the 
nails should be small, and not driven high or deep into the horn. As 
a rule, the fewer and smaller the nails used — provided they secure the 
shoe to the foot — the better. Shoes should be re-set as often as once 
a month, though in some cases they need not require setting so often. 
It is positively necessary at six, and must not be neglected longer 
than seven or eight weeks, if you would preserve the natural shape 
of the foot, 

For Interfering. 

To prevent interfering, know first what part of the foot hits the 
opposite ankle. This you can do by wrapping the ankle with a white 
cloth, which cover with some kind of coloring matter over where the 
opposite foot hits; then drive the horse until you can discover, by 



84 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE, 

some of the coloring matter adhering, what portion of the crust hits 
the ankle. Remove this portion of the crust, and have the shoe set 
well under the foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot 
safely, by bearing on the bar and heel. The hoof should be pared 
lowest on the outside, to turn the ankle, that the other hoof may pass 
clear. Yet, if the inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and 
the inside is found to be actually lower than the outside. Shoes, to 
prevent interfering, should be light, of narrow web on the inside, 
with three nail-holes near the toe. They should be straight at the 
point where they come in contact with the opposite ankle. By adher- 
ing to this principle strictly of paring the foot and fitting and fasten- 
ing the shoe, you will prevent a recurrence of the difficulty. Shoes, 
to prevent overreaching, should be long, and for the forward feet 
heavy, especially at the heels; and for the hind feet light, with 
heavy toes. The hoof should he well pared at the toe. 

Corns. 

Corns appear in the angles of the hoof near the heel. They are 
generally caused by the shoe being worn too long, causing the shell 
of the hoof to grow over the shoe, which throws the weight upon 
the sole, or the angles between the bars and crust are not kept prop- 
erly dressed out — for any accumulation of horn between the bars and 
crust which would prevent the free elasticity of the sole at the heel 
must increase the risk of producing corns, by the liability there is of 
causing the sensitive laminae beneath the edges of the coffin bone to 
become bruised, owing to the undue pressure it may be subjected to 
for want of elasticity in the horny sole. When the sensitive lamina? is 
thus bruised, the horny substance of which the sole is composed is se- 
creted in less quantities, the blood from the ruptured vessels mingles 
with the imperfectly secreted matter, and, as the process is going on, it 
soon makes its appearance on the outside. 

To Cure Corns. 

Cut the corn well down, but not quite to the quick ; fit the shoe so 
as not to press upon the part; then saturate with fine gum, which is 
found exuding from trees when cut. Fill the part nicely with tow; 
then put on the shoe, remembering that the shoe must be so fitted as 



85 

not to oblige the part to support but very little, if any, of the weight 
of the horse. We have had horses troubled with corns treated in this 
way with very good effect. Horses with corns mast be oftener and more 
carefully shod than those free from them. In shoeing, strive to keep 
the form of the foot natural. Be positive in the enforcement of this 
rule ; and, lastly, have the shoes re-set at least every six or seven weeks. 

To Learn a Horse to appear Intelligent. 

As many of our scholars may wish to know how to teach their 
horses tricks, we will explain how it may be done. Teaching your 
horse a few tricks serves greatly to keep an interest in him, and 
makes him appear fearless, intelligent and affectionate. In teaching 
a horse tricks, it is best to give him one or two lessons daily, of half, 
or three-quarters of, an hour each. 

To Come at the Crack of the Whip, or Word. 

Put on the Camanche bridle ; stand off a few feet, holding the halter 
in your left hand and the whip in the right. Crack the whip, and 
say, "Come here, sir!" He does not know what this means, but 
you show him by pulling on the halter a little, which he will obey by 
moving towards you a few steps. This movement you should thank 
him for by feeding him something that he likes from your hand, and 
by petting and caressing him upon the head and neck; then repeat in 
the same way, rewarding him as before, and so continue until he will 
walk up to you every time you crack the whip, or say, " Come here, 
sir," which he will soon learn to do. Each time he comes to you 
talk to him kindly, and do not fail to give him his reward of corn or 
something he likes. You can now take off the halter and turn him 
loose, and repeat until he fully comprehends that the way to avoid 
the whip is to come to you, which, with the encouragement of re- 
warding him for so doing, will soon inspire him with confidence, and 
he will come to you and follow like a dog. Be very cautious about 
the use of the whip or harsh language, remembering that perfect, 
cheerful obedience is your object, and that can be secured only by 
great patience and gentleness. 

To Make a Bow. 

Take a pin in the right hand, between the thumb and forefinger, 







86 the horseman's illustrated guide. 

and stand at his left side, near the hips; tell him to make a bow. 
Then prick him very lightly on the small of the back, this will 
make him move his head; keep pricking him until you get the 
right motion of the head; then caress him where you have been 
pricking him; or take your pin, as before, and stand up to his 
shoulder and prick him on the breast lightly, as if a fly were biting, 
which, to relieve, he will bring down his head, which you will accept 
as a bow, and will reward by caressing on the side of the neck. Then 
repeat until he will bring down his head at the least motion of your 
hand towards his breast, or any other signal that he will understand 
readily. 

To Say No. 

Stand by your horse's shoulder; tell him to shake his head, at the 
same time prick him lightly on the withers or neck, which will cause 
him to shake his head as if to drive away a fly. You then caress as 
before,, and repeat until he will shake his head at the least indication 
of your touching him with the pin ; you can train your horse so nicely 
in this way in a short time as to cause him to make a bow or shake 
his head by merely turning the hand a little or moving it slightly 
towards him. 

To Lie Down. 

To teach a horse to lie down quickly, you must lay him down a 
few times with the rope and strap, as heretofore described. 
When down, treat your horse with great attention and kind- 
ness. After putting him down a few times in this way he will 
usually lie down in a short time, by taking up one foot and holding it 
in your hand, asking him to lie down; he will soon come down. 
When he will come on his knees by taking his foot in your hand, 
stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, " Lie down, sir! " Then 
make him come down by a motion of the hand, and, finally, by 
simply telling him to lie down. 

In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress and reward him 
for lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you want, and 
finding himself paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious to get 
down for the reward as you are to have him do so. 

To Sit Up. 

When your horse will lie down readily, you can then learn him to 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 87 

sit up, like a dog, easily. First, cause him to lie down, having on 
a common bridle, with the reins over his neck; then step behind him 
and step firmly on his tail with the right foot, holding the reins in the 
left hand, while with the right bear down firmly on the hips, thus in 
position, say, "Get up, sir!" The horse, rising from a recumbent 
position, first turns on his belly, throws out his forward feet and 
raises himself on them, springs forward and raises on bis hind feet. 
Now, standing on his tail firmly, and pulling back upon the reins 
when he attempts to spring forward and up, will prevent his doing 
so, and you will hold him sitting up. Hold him firmly a few sec- 
onds, talking to him kindly, before permitting him to rise on his feet. 
Repeat a few times, when, instead of springing up, he will sit on his 
haunches a short time, which you are to accept as complying with 
your wishes. 

Always say " Sit up, sir! " every time, and hold him in the posi- 
tion as long as he will bear, by fondling and talking to him kindly, 
and your horse will soon learn to sit up for you as long as you please. 
But if your horse is heavy and strong, it will be necessary to resort 
to other means to hold him down at first. This you do by putting on 
his neck a common collar, and causing him to lie down ; then fasten 
a halter-strap to each hind foot, and bring forward through the col- 
lar and draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well forward. 
Then step behind, as before, and when he attempts to rise on his hind 
feet he will find it impossible to do so, because you hold them for- 
ward by those straps. Repeat two or three times, when it will not 
be necessary to resort to such force. 

To Learn a Horse Iiot? to Dance. 

Put on the Camanche bridle ; take hold of the cord some four or 
five feet from the horse's head, and with a whalebone whip tap him 
on the shin or ankle until he lifts his foot; then caress him, and do 
the same with the other; then make him raise first one foot, then the 
other, and caress ; then make him raise them several times, until he 
moves his whole body by the motion of the whip to the time of 
music. 

To Learn to Waltz. 

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his chest and 
fasten the bridle reins to it — the left rein much the tightest — bringing 



88 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

his head well round to the left side. Then make him move forward, 
when he follows his head, and every time as he is turning his head 
from you give him a sharp cut with the whip, which will make him 
jump round quickly until his head comes around to you again. Then 
you should caress and encourage him by talking kindly. He will 
then be slower to move his head from you, but you musl continue 
with the whip every time the horse's hind parts are to you and his 
head from you, caressing every few minutes, until he understands to 
move at the motion of the whip. 

To Teach a Horse to Kiss You. 

Teach him first to take an apple, or something that he likes, out of 
your hand; when gradually raising the hand nearer the mouth at 
each repetition until you require him to take it from your mouth, 
holding it with your hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. 
He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth, first to get his 
apple, but finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until 
your horse understands and will do the trick thoroughly. 

To Shake Hands. 

Tie a short strap to the forward foot below the fetlock. Stand 
directly in front of the horse, holding the end of the strap in your 
hand, then say, "Shake hands, sir," and immediately pull upon the 
strap, which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept 
as shaking hands, thanking him for it by caressing and rubbing his 
leg, and so repeat until when you make the demand he will bring the 
foot forward in anticipation of having it pulled up. This is a very 
easy trick to teach a horse. By a little practice, a horse may be easily 
trained to approach, make a bow, shake hands, follow like a dog, lie 
down, sit up, etc., which makes him appear both polite and intelli- 
gent. Never lose courage or confidence in your ability because you 
do not bring about good results easily. To accomplish anything of 
importance, remember, it requires no ordinary resolution and perse- 
verance. There will be no credit or importance attached to master 
ing and managing bad horses, if not difticuH and apparently danger- 
ous. No duty requires more firmness of purpose in the control of 
the passions, or more fidelity to the principles of kindness and truth 
than that of Horsemanship. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 89 

The Trick Dog. 

(8ee Engraving No. 37.) 
Many amusing tricks may be taught to exhibit the wonderful saga- 
city of dogs. Perhaps a Spaniel dog is the most tractable of any ; 
but a black-and-tan is quite as apt. A Scotch terrier is also quick to 
learn. 

TO TEACH IIIM TO SIT UP. 

Sit him up in the corner, and with a switch hit him lightly under 
the mouth, snapping your fingers, and say, " Sit up." As he comes 
down, put him back, and repeat, till lie will remain. Then say, 
" That will do," and call him down, and caress him; repeat this, till 
he will do it in any place as well as in the corner of a room. He 
will soon learn to do the trick at the word and snap of your fingers. 

TO TEACH HIM TO SIT DOWN. 

Press your hand upon his back toward his hind legs, and say, " Sit 
down," at the same time tapping the floor with your foot. Tap him 
under the chin, to keep his head up. He will, after a few lessons, 
understand that tapping the floor means sit down. 

TO STAND UP. 

Take some food in your hand, and offer him, holding it well up, 
and say, "Stand up." Repeat, till he will stand up readily, per- 
mitting him to rest his fore paws on your unoccupied hand, till he can 
stand easily alone. Then take him by the fore feet, lift him up quite 
hard, and say, " Stand up." You can now combine this with the last 
two tricks, saying, "Stand up," "Sit up" "Sit down" "That will do/' 

TO GET INTO A CHAIR. 
(See Engraving No. 38.) 
Take 3 r our own way to coax him into the chair, using the word 
chair whenever you cause him to get into it. When he becomes 
familiar with the word, say, " Go and get into the chair." After he 
will do this, teach him to put his paws on the back, by saying, " Put 
them up," or saying, "Up!" assisting him at first. Then teach him 
to put his head down on his paws, by placing it there and repeating 
the word down, caressing him each time he complies. To have him 




ffi ?M% 




92 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

hold his head up, tap him under the mouth, and say, " Up," remem- 
bering to say " That will do," when you are through with the trick. 
You may teach him to jump over the chair, by playfully coaxing 
him to do so, saying, " Jump." 

TO MAKE HIM GO LAME. 

Tap him with a little rod on the hind foot, saying, " Lame; " then 
coax him along, and if he puts his foot down, hit him quite smartly 
on the foot, making him keep it up, till he will go lame at the word, 
and a motion of the rod. When you seat him in the chair, if he 
goes to jump down, stop him ; teaching him to wait for the word lio. 
As he comes down with his fore feet on the floor, steady him by the 
word, and teach him to stop with his hind legs up in the chair; lead 
the way around as far as he can go, and then back again; if this is 
done on a stool, he can thus be taught to go all the way around, and 
is then ready to run on his forward legs. Do this as often as the 
chair trick is performed, saying "Around;" after a while take him 
by the tail and lift him up, and switching his hind legs lightly, walk 
him around, saying, "Around." He will soon learn to lift up his 
hind legs at the motion of the whip, and the words, " Go round," and 
will perform a circle, walking on his forward legs. 

TO SIT ON A STOOL. 

It is now easy to teach him to sit down on a low stool. You may 
then teach him to take a seat on the stool, by leading him around by 
his forward feet, and seating him on the stool, with his fore feet held 
up, saying, "Seat." 

TO TEACH HIM TO FIND THINGS. 

Take something with which he is accustomed to play; call him up 
to you, and blindfold him, throw the article a short distance from 
you; if the dog has good scent, tell him you have lost; then remove 
the blindfold, and he will search and find it. Repeat this, throwing 
it farther each time, till you can throw anything you have held in 
your hand at a distance, you looking in the direction, saying, "I 
have lost;" he will search till he finds it. If the dog has not good 
scent, teach him to look down at the word find, and up at the 
word up. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 93 

TO TEACH HIM TO CREEP. 

First make him lie down on all fours: then get upon your knees, 
take your dog's fore paws in your hands, and rest the back of your 
hands on the floor; draw your hands, first one and then the other, 
toward you, saying, " Creep, creep, sir." If he attempts to get up, 
hold his fore legs fast to the floor, saying, "Careful, sir." As soon as 
he stops struggling, begin again. This is one of the easiest tricks for 
a dog to learn, and can be taught him in a very short time. 

TO BE A DEAD DOG. 

Take your dog by the fore shoulders, say to him "Be dead, " at 
the same time lay him down on his side. He will at first struggle to 
get up, but hold him fast, and when he is quiet, take your hands from 
him. Work slowly and carefully. If he attempts to get up, hold 
his head to the floor again. In a short time he will lie down upon 
his side at the word " Dead." When you wish him to get up, change 
your voice, and speak quickly, but not harshly, "That will do, sir," or 
" Dinner is ready/' or " Beefsteak," or any word you wish, and after 
he has thoroughly learned the word he will not get up until you 
speak it. 

TO BALANCE O^" THE BACK OF A CHAIR. 

Take a common bar-room chair — one with wide arms is best ; coax 
your dog up into it; take his fore paws and place them on the arm of 
the chair; pat and caress him as you proceed. Now get another 
chair, and place it about a foot from the first ; stand on the outside of 
the chair, and coax him to come to you. They sometimes will jump 
over the arm; if they do, put them. back again and speak out sharply, 
" Careful." Try him again. He then will probably put all his feet 
on the arm of the chair. If he does, take the second chair away, 
and step in front of him as quickly as possible ; put your hand under 
his chin and steady him; gradually take your hand away, and pat 
and caress him. If you have a small piece of meat to give him, so 
much the better; but never caress nor feed him unless he does right. 

TO TEACH HIM TO WALTZ. 

First teach him to stand up. Then take a piece of meat and hold 
it up above his head. If he jumps for it, take it out of his way, and 



94 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

give him a slight cuff on the ear. Now say to him, " Stand up." If 
he obeys you, give him a small piece. Then hold another piece near 
his nose, and carry it around over his head, saying, " Waltz." If he 
turns after it,, give it to him. Try him so for several times ; then 
make him turn two or three times before you reward him. Work 
this way for a short time, and he will waltz for you at the word, 
without any reward. 



Diseases of the Dog. 

Administering Medicine.— We will commence this work by 
giving directions how to administer medicine. If your dog is not 
large, you can manage him by yourself. Invert a bucket and set cm 
it; set the dog down on his haunches, between your legs, holding him 
with your knees; tie a cloth around his neck; this, falling over his 
fore paws is pressed against his ribs by your knees ; his fore legs, by 
this dodge, are "hors de combat" With the finger and thumb of 
one hand force open the jaws, elevating his head at the same time 
with the same hand. If a bolus, with the other hand pass it over the 
roots of his tongue, and give it a sharp poke downward; close the 
mouth, still holding up the head till you see it swallowed. If a 
draught, give a mouthful, close the mouth, hold up the head, and 
stop the nostrils. Repeat this if the draught is too large to be taken 
at once. If the dog is very large you must have an assistant, else in 
his struggles he will upset you and the medicine too. 

Physic. — In giving a dog physic, be sure to keep him warm and 
dry, especially if you use calomel or mercurial preparations. Always 
remove him from the kennel and put him into a hospital apart from 
the rest, to prevent infection, as well as to insure the poor brute 
quietness. Study the appearance of the eyes, feet, nose, extremities, 
pulse, etc. 

To Make a Bitch Inclined to Copulate. — Seven drops tincture 
of cantharides twice a day till effect is produced; about six days 
probably. 

Mange. — Caused by dirty kennels, neglect, want of nourishing, or 
improper, food. Cure — one ounce salts, if dog of moderate size ; rub 
every third day, well into the skin, of the following mixture : train oil 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 95 

(tanner's will do), one quart ; spirits turpentine, one large wine-glass 
full ; sulphur, sufficient to make a thin paste ; mix well ; let it stay on 
the animal two weeks, then wash well with castile soap and warm 
water. 

Worms. — Cowhage, one-half drachm; tin filings (very fine), four 
drachms; make into four or six balls, according to size of dog; one 
daily, and a few hours afterwards, a purge of salts or aloes. Another 
remedy — powdered glass, as much as will lie on a quarter of a dollar, 
mixed with lard. Repeat once or twice alternate days; finish off 
with one or two drachms of so<:o trine aloes rolled up in tissue paper. 

To Make a Doo Fine en His Coat. — A table-spoonful of tar and 
oatmeal ; make bolus. 

To Destroy Lice. — Sometimes the recipe for fleas will prove 
efficacious, but not always. A small quantity of mercurial oint- 
ment, reduced by adding hog's lard to it, say an equal quantity, 
rubbed along the back never fails; but the greatest care must be 
taken to keep the animal warm and dry. 

Distemter. — Distemper is caused by low keep, neglect, and change 
of atmosphere. Symptoms of- the disease are as follows: Loss of 
spirit, activity and appetite, drowsiness, duiness of the eyes, lying at 
length with nose to the ground, coldness of extremities, legs, ears 
and lips, heat in head and lx)dy, running at the nose and eyes, accom- 
panied by sneezing, emaciation and weakness, dragging of hind 
quarters, flanks drawn in, diarrhoea, and sometimes vomiting. There 
are several receipts for this, the worst of all disea-es One is better 
than another, according to the various stages. The first if taken at 
an early stage, seldom fails; half an ounce of salts in warm water, 
when first taken ill; thirty-six hours af terwards, ten grains compound 
powder of ipecacuanha in warm water. If in two days he is not 
better, take sixteen grams antimonial powder, made into four boluses, 
one night and morning for two days. If no improvement is visible, 
continue these pills, unless diarrhoea comes on, in which case you 
must use the ipecacuanha day, about with the pills. If the animal 
is much weakened by this, give him one teaspoonful Huxam's 
tincture of bark three times a day. James' powder is almost a cer- 
tain remedy — dose, four grains. In case of fits coming on, destroy 
the animal. The same may be said of paralysis. If this disease is 






96 the horseman's illustrated guide. 

taken in its early stages and attended to, and the dog kept warm, 
there is not much danger, otherwise it is very fatal. 

Bilious Fever is caused by want of exercise and too high feed 
ing. Calomel, six or eight grains, or in an obstinate case, turpeth 
mineral or yellow mercury, six to twelve grains in a bolus. 

Inflammation of the Bowels. — Symptoms: dulness of appear- 
ance and eyes; loss of appetite; lying on the belly with outstretched 
legs; pulse much quickened; scratching up the bed into a heap, and 
pressing the belly on it; desire to swallow stones, coal, or any cold 
substance not voidable; inclination to hide away. It is very danger- 
ous, and requires active treatment. Bleed most freely until the dog 
faints away; clap a blister on the pit of the stomach. Give aloes 
fifteen grains, opium half. a grain; repeat dose three times a day. 
Bleed after twelve hours if the pulse rises again, and continue dosing 
and bleeding till either the dog or inflammation gives in. No half 
measures will do in this case. If. you get the upper hand there is no 
trouble; if not it is fatal. Feed low, and attend carefully to prevent 
relapse. 

Staggers and Fits. — This generally happens in warm weather. 
Throw water on them if convenient; if not, bleed in the neck, if you 
have lancets; if not, slit the ears with your knife (you can cause 
them to adhere together again), or run your knife across two or three 
bars next the teeth. Bitches coming off heat are more subject to this 
than dogs in good health. 

Bleeding.— You may readily bleed a dog in the jugular vein, by 
holding up his head, stopping the circulation at the base of the neck. 
Part the hair, and with the lancet make an incision, taking care not 
to stick him too deeply. If the animal rejoices in a heavy coat, it 
may be necessary to shave away the hair. From one to eight ounces 
are the quantities; use your own judgment. 

Canker in the Ear. — Wash well with soap and warm water; fill 
the ear with finely powdered charcoal or powdered borax. Clean out 
daily with sponge on stick and warm writer, and repeat the dusting 
till it heals. Another remedy. Oak bark, one pound, chopped fine 
and well boiled in soft water. When cold, take of the decoction of 
bark four ounces, sugar of lead, half a drachm, put a tea-spoonful 
into the ear night and morning, nibbing the root of the ear well to 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 9V 

cause it to get well into the cavities. This is one of the best receipts 
in this book. 

External Canker of the Ear. — Butter of antimony diluted in 
milk to the thickness of cream, will cure it ; or red precipitate, half 
an ounce with two ounces of hog's lard, mixed well. 

For a Strain. — Use Bertine's liniment, or one ounce of turpen- 
tine, half pint old beer, half pint brine, bathe the part and repeat, or 
sal ammonia, one ounce, Vinegar, one pint. 

Bruises or Strains op Long Standing! — Gall and opodeldoc are 
excellent; shaved camphor, two ounces; spirits of wine, three quar- 
ters of a pint; shake well, and cork close, placing it near the fire 
until the camphor dissolves ; then add a bullock's gall ; shake well 
together ; apply, rubbing it well into the part affected until it lathers. 

Dog Poisoned.— Give a tea-cup full of castor oil. After he has 
vomited well, continue to pour olive oil down his throat and rub his 
belly. 

Fleas. — Scotch snuff steeped in gin is infallible; but must be used 
with great care, and not above a tea-spoonful of 3nuff to a pint of 
gin — as the cure, if overdone, is a deadly poison. 

Torn Ears. — Laudanum and brandy, equal parts, mix well; apply 
alternately with sweet oil. 

Swelled Teats.— Make pomade of camphorated spirit of brandy 
and goose grease ; apply two to three times daily. 

To Extract Thorns. — Cobbler's wax bound on the place, or 
black pitch plaster or a poultice are equally good. 

Films over the Eyes. — Blue-stone or lunar caustic, eight grains* 
spring water, one ounce. Wash the eyes with it, letting a little pass 
in. Repeat this daily, and you will soon cure it. 

Films Caused by Thorn Wounds. — Rest the dog till perfectly 
headed over, washing with rose water. If much inflammation, bleed 
and foment with hot water, with a few drops of laudanum in it — 
about forty drops of laudanum to one ounce of water ; or two grains 
of opium to one ounce of water — one as good as the other. Thee 
apply four or five times a day the following wash : Super-acetate of 
lead half a drachm, rose water six ounces," 



98 the horseman's illustrated guide. 

Stripping Feet. — Wash in bran and warm water with a little 
vinegar; alter, apply tincture of myrrh. Apply sweet oil before he 
goes out. If his feet are sore, wash in buttermilk until better, then 
apply brine and vinegar equal parts. 

Wounds. — Poultice for a day or two, then apply Friar's Balsam, 
covering up the place. 

For a Green Wound. — Hog's lard, turpentine and beeswax equal 
parts; verdigris one- fourth part. Simmer over a slow fire till they 
are well mixed and apply. 

Puuoative Medicines. — Salts, one ounce, calomel, five grains; 
or socotrine aloes, two drachms for a moderate-sized dog. 

To Reduce the time a Bitcii is in Heat. — Give her a little nitre 
in water, and a dose of calomel four grains or thereabouts, followed 
by salts or aloes. 

Feed for Greyhounds in Training.— Wheat flour and oat m 
old, equal parts. Liquorice, anise seed and white of eggs. Make 
into a paste; make loaves, bake them; break into a very rich broth. 

Bite of Snake. — Olive oil well rubbed in before the lire, and a 
copious drench of it also. 



Diseases of the Horse. 

INFLAMMATION. 

From inflammo, I burn, is one of the most common forms of dis- 
ease presented to the veterinary surgeon, and regarding which many 
erroneous opinions have prevailed, in consequence of which much 
injury and often serious consequences have resulted. Sound medical 
practice must be based upon sound medical principles. A correct 
understanding of tin 1 term inflammation will assist us very mat* rially 
in understanding the pathology of diseases ,n their most complicated 
forms. A few years since every form of disease occurring in. our 
domestic animals was regarded and treated as some form of in Ham 
mation; purging and bleeding were the order of the day. How 
different the practice of the present time. 

The manner in which inflammation has been written upon, has 



99 

made it a subject perfectly bewildering to the general reader, and, 
from its being associated with everything in actual practice, no idea 
of a very definite kind with regard to it will for a long time occur to 
his mind. With a view to overcome this difficulty, wc will give the 
most simple definition of the term Inflammation: " It is an unnatu- 
ral or perverted action of and in the capillary blood vessels of a 
part; attended with redness, throbbing, swelling, pain, heat and dis- 
order of function, with change in both its fluid and solid constituents, 

as well as with more or l<ss general disturbance of the system." The 
extent to which structures Id a state of Inflammation will swell, varies 
considerably, depending upon the vital and physical characters of the 
tissue involved. Muscular tissue becomes very much swollen, while 
on the other hand, horny and cartilaginous tissues swell but little. 
in consequence Of their low State of vitality. It must be remem- 
bered that it requires an assemblage of the above conditions to con- 
stitute inflammation. Swelling, pain, heat or redness alone do not 
constitute that condition, as either may occur from causes independ- 
ent of any inflammatory action whatever. 

We now feel prepared to proceed with our remarks upon the 
various diseases with which the horse is afflicted, with a better under* 
standing regarding the interest of our readers than we would have 

done had we passed this subject by unnoticed. 

CAPiLLAiurcs.— The blood is the pabulum from whence is elabo- 
rated the entire organism, as well as the source from whence are 
derived all the various secretions and excretions of the system; but, 
in order that these purposes may be accomplished, it is necessary for 
the fluid in question to be circulated through, or its materials brought 
in contact with every tissue requiring fresh nutrition, as well as 
through the various secretory and excretory organs. To effectually 
accomplish this, we find a class of structures set apart and admirably 
adapted in every way to fulfill the purposes required. The first of 
these is the heart itself; next comes the large blood conduits, the arte 
ries, which spring from the former, as the tree springs from the earth; 
while the arteries again terminate in a series of vessels of wonderful 
minuteness, just as the boughs of a tree terminate in the twigs. 
These minute vessels are denominated capillaries. These capillaries 
ramify, and are placed in the most intimate relation with every tissue 
throughout the body within whose substance reproduction and decay 
are in perpetual operations, as well as with those organs whose duty 



100 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

it is to furnish or separate the secretions and excretions already re^ 
f erred to. Each tissue selects from the common pabulum — the blood 
— thus sent to it, the peculiar principle it requires to support its own 
life and integrity. 

The usual terminajfeons of inflammation are resolution, mortifica- 
tion, suppuration, ulceration, hemorrhage, effusion, hepatization, and 
ossification. By resolution is meant the state of the tissues after their 
recovery from the effects of inflammation. 

Mortification is loss of vitality, or death of the tissues involved. 

Suppuration. — A collection of purulent matter, which receives 
the name of abscess. 

Ulceration. — A purulent solution of continuity of the soft parts 
arising from loss of substance. 

Hemorrhage occurs as a direct or indirect consequence of inflam- 
mation, from ulceration penetrating through the coats of an artery. 

Effusion. — An exudation of serum, watery accumulations, as in 
dropsy. 

Hepatization. — Conversion of a texture into a substance like 
liver. 

Ossification. — Formation of bone — change of soft structures into 
bony ones. 

The account we give is necessarily brief ; but we trust it is sufficient 
to furnish the reader with a clear conception of the matter in hand, 
and in turn enable him to clearly comprehend that which is to follow. 

DISEASES OF THE MOUTH LAMPASS. 

All young animals, during the period of dentition, have a fullness 
or swelling of the gums and bars, or roof of the mouth. In many 
colts it occasions but little or no inconvenience, while in others the 
pain is so great as to interfere with their feeding. When this condi- 
tion exists, do not resort to the barbarous practice of burning with a 
red-hot iron, but act humanely. Lance the bars with your pocket- 
knife, if you have nothing better, as your family physician would 
lance the gums of your child under similar circumstances, and in a 
few days the animal will feed as usual. 






THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 101 

BAGS, OR WASHERS. 

These are soft, puffy swellings of the lining membrane of the mouth, 
caused by the bit bruising the parts in reining. If inconvenient to 
the animal, they may be removed by cutting off a portion of the 
swollen parts with a pair of scissors or a knife, after which apply a 
little alum-water, or equal parts of tincture of myrrh and water, to 
the wound, two or three times a day. 

SORE MOUTH. 

This occurs from the same causes, and is situated usually at the 
angles of the mouth. Equal parts of tincture of myrrh, tincture of 
aloes and water, is the best application we can make. 

UNEVEN TEETH. 

The molar teeth of the horse very frequently become sharp and 
irregular, interfering with mastication to such an extent as to cause 
the digestive organs to become impaired, giving rise to an unhealthy 
condition of the system. At times the insides of the cheeks become 
lacerated by their sharp edges, causing them to become tumid and 
sore. These cases can only be remedied by the use of the horse-rasp, 
an instrument made for the purpose. 

WOLF TEETH. 

These are two small teeth which make their appearance immediately 
in front of the upper molar teeth in all colts at some period from the 
first to the fifth year. It is supposed by very many horsemen that 
they exert an evil influence over the eyes of the horse. My expe- 
rience does not prove the fact, and I cannot reconcile my mind to 
believe that they, natural teeth, should be placed in the mouths of all 
colts if they were injurious to the eyes or any other organ of the 
body. If you wish them removed, the best plan is to extract them 
with a pair of dentist's forceps. In knocking them out, the roots are 
frequently left behind, and of course your object is not accomplished. 

CARIES OF THE TEETH. 

Caries, or decay of the teeth of horses, is a disease of frequent 
occurrence. The silence of veterinary writers upon the subject has 



102 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

caused it to be overlooked by those having the care of that useful 
animal, and the symptoms in consequence have been confounded 
with those of other diseases. 

Symptoms. — Occasionally we have a fetid breath, fetid discharge 
from one nostril, a wheezing in the head, food improperly masticated 
passing away undigested, quidding, drowsing, hide-bound, staring 
coat, tucked-up belly, tossing the head, stopping short on the road, 
shaking his head and starting on again, and at times becoming almost 
unmanageable. These symptoms do not all occur in the same animal 
— one appearing drowsy, requiring the whip to urge him on, while 
another, at times, is wild and frantic with pain, taking the bit, and 
becoming troublesome to manage, occasionally running away. Some 
of those symptoms occur in other diseases; but we should not over- 
look the teeth in our examination when any of the above symptoms 
appear. The only remedy is the extraction of the diseased teeth. 

DISTEMPER. 

All catarrhal affections are classed under one general head, namely, 
distemper, by horse-owners generally. A common cold, sore throat, 
influenza, bronchitis, and several others, are regarded as distempers. 
We will endeavor to make the distinction in such a manner that each 
form of disease may be readily discovered, and the proper remedies 
applied. Distemper, as we should understand it, is the mildest form 
of catarrhal affections. A common cold, for instance, is an inflam- 
mation of the lining membrane of the nose, causing a secretion of 
mucus, which is more or less abundantly discharged from the nos- 
trils, in severe cases the inflammation extending down the trachea, 
or windpipe, to, the bronchial tubes, and sometimes to the lungs, pro- 
ducing diseases which are classed under different heads, and often 

requiring different treatment. 

# 

Treatment. — Oil of origanum, 1 ounce; oi] cedar, 1 ounce; tinc- 
ture cantharides, 1 ounce ; olive oil, 4 oimces ; shake well, and bathe 
the throat and glands morning and evening for six days; rub in well 
with the hand ; he will throw out freely, and the cure is performed. 

SORE THROAT. 

This is usually one of the first indications of catarrh, and when 
confined to that portion of the throat at the angle of the jaws it is 



THE HOBSEMAN's ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 103 

termed laryngitis. The symptoms of this disease are well marked: 
the head is stiff, and if the throat is rubbed or pressed upon, cough- 
ing is excited; the animal manifests difficulty in swallowing, and fre- 
quently considerable saliva collects in the mouth. 

Treatment. — Apply strong mustard made into a paste with 
vinegar to the throat, and rub it well in ; or linseed oil, two parts, 
with spirits of hartshorn; one part will answer a good purpose. 
Give upon the tongue half a tea-spoonful of powdered saltpetre twice 
a day. 

STRANGLES. 

This is a more severe form of laryngitis, involving the glands of 
the throat, causing a veny great swelling, which often threatens suf- 
focation. The respiration becomes disturbed, the breathing labo- 
rious, and can be heard at a considerable distance; the animal sweats 
from his convulsive efforts to breathe, and, if not relieved, dies a 
violent death. Here the aid of the qualified veterinary surgeon is 
absolutely required, as there are few persons competent to perform 
the operation of tracheotomy; that is, opening the windpipe to admit 
air into the lungs. This, early performed, frequently saves the ani- 
mal's life. 

Treatment. — Poultice the throat well with flaxseed meal; steam 
the nostrils two or three times a day, and, as soon as the swelling 
under the jaws becomes soft, it should be lanced. When relief is 
once obtained, the further treatment of these cases is the same as for 
ordinary sore throat. 

INFLUENZA. 

Spring and fall are the seasons most productive of epidemic catarrh. 
One year it assumes a mild form; the next, perhaps a most malignant 
one. Influenza is known to horsemen under the common name of 
" pink-eye distemper." 

Symptoms.— These vary very considerably in different animals. 
The usual or leading symptoms are: slight watery or thin mucus 
discharges from the nose, eyelids presenting a reddish or orange-red 
appearance, matter collects in the corners of the eyes, pulse feeble, 
great debility, as shown by the quick, feeble action of the heart — a 
symptom rarely absent — membrane of nose much reddened, sore 
throat and cough ; occasionally the feet become fevered, as in f oun- 



104 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

der, causing much stiffness, which may be easily mistaken for that 
disease. 

Treatment. — This being a typhoid disease, requires a sustaining 
treatment, or our success will be very doubtful. In the early stage of 
the disease give, the first two days, ten drops of tincture of aconite, 
or bryonia, in a little water, every six hours ; after which give in a 
pail of water, to drink once a day, one ounce of spirits of nitre, or 
two drachms of extract^ of belladonna; and give in the feed, three 
times a day, one of the following powders: Gentian root, saltpetre 
and anise seed, of each one ounce — sulphate of quinine, one drachm; 
mix and divide into eight powders; or, powdered cinchonia and pow- 
dered quassia, of each, two ounces; powdered anise seed, one ounce; 
mix and divide into four powders. The throat should be bathed in 
mustard and vinegar, or with linseed oil, three ounces, spirits of 
hartshorn one ounce, mixed together. No hay or corn should be 
given, but scalded oats and wheat bran, with linseed tea or oatmeal 
gruel, should constitute the diet ; a few carrots would be very good, 
and. above all, good nursing is very desirable. 

BRONCHITIS. 

This is an inflammation of the bronchial tubes, as its name implie 
the air tubes of the lungs. It is usually preceded by a shivering fit, 
the mouth is hot and full of saliva, the throat is sore, and, if pressed 
upon, excites a painful cough, discharge from the nose, appetite lost, 
pulse quick, and respiration labored, eyelids and nostrils reddened; 
on applying the ear to the side, a gurgling sound is heard. 

Treatment. — Give the following ball in the early stage of the dis- 
ease : Nitrate of potassa, pulverized digitalis and tartrate of antimony, 
of each half a drachm, molasses sufficient to make the ball. If the 
fever is not broken in twelve hours, repeat the ball. As soon as the 
desired object is obtained, give one of the following powders twice a 
day, in a sloppy mass: nitrate of potassa, one and a half ounces; 
nitrate of soda, six ounces; divide into six powders; or give the fol- 
lowing: Extract of belladonna, one drachm; spirits of nitre, one 
ounce;, solution of acetate of ammonia, four ounces, in half a pint of 
water, as a drench. The throat and sides should be blistered; the 
ordinary fly blister, made thin with turpentine, is very good, or mus- 
tard mixed with equal parts of water and spirits of hartshorn. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 105 

Either of the above, when used, should be well rubbed in with the 
hand. 

NASAL GLEET. 

This is a chronic discharge, from one or both nostrils, of a whitish 
mucopurulent matter, the result usually of neglected catarrh. The 
general health of the animal does not seem to suffer; he looks well, 
feeds well, and works well; yet we have this discharge, which is 
caused by weakness in the secretory vessels of the lining membrane 
of the nose. The successful treatment in all cases where this disor- 
der has existed has been on the tonic principle ; bleeding and purging 
are positively injurious. Give one of the following powders night 
and morning: Sesqui-chloride of iron, two ounces; powdered cinna- 
mon, one ounce; mix and divide into four powders; or carbonate of 
iron, pulverized gentian and pulverized quassia, of each one ounce; 
divide into four powders; or nux vomica pulverized, one-half ounce, 
linseed meal, two ounces; divide into eight powders. Another good 
preparation is muriate of barytes, one-half ounce; linseed meal, one 
ounce ; divide into eight powders. 

PNEUMONIA. 

This disease is known to horsemen as lung fever. It is either in- 
flammatory or congestive, arising from various causes — as high feed- 
ing, badly-ventilated stables, violent exercise, or sudden changes 
from heat to cold. In the congestive stage there is no pulse to be 
found, and, on applying the ear to the side, no sound is heard; cold 
sweats bedew the body, the respiration is labored, eyes wild in their 
expression, legs cold, the animal appears dull and stupid, and is with 
difficulty made to move ; he does not lie down. In these cases medi- 
cines are not require! ; in fact they often do more injury than good; 
the free and speedy use of the lancet is our only hope, and a pure 
air is of the greatest importance. A pail of cold water should be 
placed before the animal, but no food should be given until the ani- 
mal is relieved, and then only mashes of wheat bran. Under this 
treatment he will speedily recover, or inflammation of the lungs will 
be established. The pulse now becomes quick, the mouth hot, legs 
cold, head hanging in or under the manger, appetite lost; on apply- 
ing the ear to the side, a crepitating or crackling sound is heard; 
respiration quick. The treatment here must be prompt and energetic; 



106 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

blisters to the sides, such as previously spoken of, must be used, and 
give internally two ounces of spirits of nitre in half a pint of water; 
follow this in two hours with ten drops of tincture of aconite in 
water, to be given every six hours until relief is obtained; or give 
instead one of the following powders: Tartrate of antimony, pulver- 
ized digitalis, of each, one drachm; nitrate of potassa, one ounce; 
mix and divide into eight powders; give one every four hours upon 
the tongue. Injections of soap and water are very useful in these 
cases. The legs should be hand-rubbed, and stimulated with mustard 
or cayenne pepper, and then wrapped in woolen bandages; a pure 
atmosphere and good nursing are very necessary. 

PLEURISY. 

This is an inflammation of the lining membrane of the chest and 
covering of the lungs. The symptoms are uneasiness, pawing, look- 
ing at the sides, pulse quick, pain, or pressure over the ribs, body 
hot, lying down, but rising quickly. The same treatment as in 
inflammation of the lungs is called for; but, under no circumstances, 
should bleeding be resorted to. These cases are very apt to termi- 
nate in hydrothorax, or 

DROPSY OF THE CHEST. 

Symptoms — Breathing short and quick, legs straggling, pulse 
small and quick; breast, belly, and sheath swell, and leave the mark 
of the finger when pressed upon; the animal stands until he dies. 
The treatment of this disease, as a general thing, is not very satisfac- 
tory. The iodide of potassa, in half -drachm doses, three times a 
day, has proved the most useful medicine in such cases, in connection 
with setons in the breast and sides. 

BROKEN WIND, OR HEAVES. 

This disease is well known to horsemen; so we will content our- 
selves merely by giving the most successful remedies, which, for 
the most part, are only palliative. Divide half an ounce of pul- 
verized digitalis in twenty parts, and give one part night and morning 
in the feed, until gone ; this will usually allay all signs of the disease 
in two weeks. Or, take assafoetida, two drachms; camphor, one 
drachm; mix and five it every other night for a week. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 107 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BOWELS. 

This disease may appear suddenly, or it may be slow in coming on. 
The symptoms resemble those of colic, with whicl disease it is often 
confounded. The pulse is our certain guide in determining the char- 
acter of the disease ; when that is full and natural, or nearly so there 
is no inflammation; if full, strong and quick, there is inflammation; 
other symptoms corresponding, there is no difficulty in deteimining 
the case. In colic the symptoms of pain are intermittent ; in inflam- 
mation of the bowels there are no intermissions. Other symptoms 
which are present in both diseases are pawing, kicking the belly, 
rolling and tumbling about, sweating, haggard expression Of counte- 
nance looking at his sides, etc. ; in colic the legs usually are warm;' 
in inflammation of the bowels they are cold. 

Treatment. — Bleed freely fiom the neck -vein, and give ten 
drops tincture of aconite every three hours ; apply blankets saturated 
with hot water to the entire body, and keep it up for two hours; then 
remove the wet ones and replace them with dry ones, well-secured 
with a body girth. Injections of tobacco smoke are very useful in 
these cases, when not convenient, soap and water will answer the 
purpose. No food of any kind should be given for at least forty- 
eight hours. 

DIARRHCEA, 

The cause of this disease is exposure to cold, over-exertion, change 
of water, over-doses of cathartic medicine, etc. 

Treatment. — Give one of the following powders every six hours 
untiljthe bowels are checked; powdered opium, one drachm; pow- 
dered catechu, two drachms; prepared chalk, one ounce; mix and 
divide into four powders. 

COLIC, 

This disease — known also as gripes, cramp and fret — is either 
spasmodic or flatulent. Spasmodic colic is a spasmodic contraction 
of the muscular coats of the intestines, causing griping pains, etc. 
(see inflammation of bowels). Flatulent colic is an accumulation of 
gas in the stomach and intestines, generated by fermentation in the 
stomach, causing swelling of the abdomen, and sometimes rupture of 
Ike stomach. 






108 the horseman's illustrated guide. 

Treatment. — For spasmodic colic, give one ounce tincture opium 
and one ounce of sulphuric ether in halt a pint of water this should 
be repeated m half an hour it relief is not obtained. Or, give the 
following: tincture of opium, one ounce; aromatic spirits of ammonia, 
halt an ounce; extract of belladonna, one drachm; water, one pint; 
mix. In flatulent colic give chlorate of potash, w one half ounce ; 
sulphuric ether, one-half ounce; tincture of aloes, three ounces; 
water, one pint, mix and drench. 

WORMS. 

Thousands of animals die annually from the ravages of these 
pests without the true cause being suspected; especially is this the 
in the young of the mare, cow, sheep and pig. Many varieties 
of these parasites belong to our domestic animals which have not 
been mentioned by veterinary writers; they are found in every tissue 
of the body, '*ven in the blood. The symptoms of worms have been 
but very imperfectly described by writers upon the subject. In an 
experience of many years I .have observed the. following symptoms, 
but not all in the same animal. Each variety of worm has its 
characteristic symptoms, namely: in bots, we rarely have loss of 
condition, but when the bots become^ troublesome, colicky pains, 
gasping, quickened respiration, staring or haggard expression of the 
eye, with a strong tendency to inflammation of the bowels, will be 
observed. Bots are rarely troublesome, except when passing away in 
their regular -manner, which occurs from May to August in each 
year. In most other varieties of worms the symptoms are debility, 
feebleness, sluggish movements, emaciation, staring coat, hide-bound, 
and skin covered with scurvy blotches, rigidity of loins, small and 
feeble but slightly accelerated pulse, respiration slow, tucked-up 
belly, a peculiar pallid appearance of the lining of the lips (a certain 
indication), irregular, capricious, but persistent, appetite, badly 
digested faeces, agitation of heart and tail ; and where the fundament 
worms exist a whitish or yellowish-white substance will be found 
aboul the fundament, ii.dicated also by rubbing the tail. 

The treatment for worms has been attended with much uncertainty 

' heretofore, and is to the present day, with practitioners generally. 

Those on which most dependence has been placed are: calomel, one 

half drachm; tartrate of antimony, one half drachm; linseed meal, 

one half ounce; mix and give at night. Or, iron filings, two 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 109 

drachms; common salt, one-half ounce; powdered savin, one drachm; 
linseed meal one-half ounce; mix and give every night for a week. 
Or, assafoetida, two drachms; calomel, one and a half drachms; savin, 
one and a half drachms; oil male fern, thirty drops; linseed meal, 
two drachms ; mix with molasses and give at night. Or calomel, one 
drachm; powdered wormwood, one ouDce; hooey sufficient to make 
the ball ; give at night. Follow either of the above with the following 
ball: barbadoes aloes one ounce; pulverized gentian, two drachms; 
pulverized ginger, one drachm; water sufficient to make the ball. 
Another remedy, highly recommended, is the following: Barbadoes 
aloes,*liix drachms ; male fern, four ounces ; spirits turpentine, two 
ounces; mix and divide into six balls; give one three times a day. 

RETENTION OF URINE. 

This is known by frequent but unsuccessful efforts to stale. In 
some animals it arises from a dislike to spatter their legs in voiding 
the water; hence a horse will frequently retain it in the bladder until 
the litter is* shaken up under him, when he will at once relieve him- 
self. When the result is spasm of the neck of the bladder, an 
instrument is used called a catheter, made expressly for the purpose; 
this is passed up the urinary passage to the bladder, when the water 
will flow freely and give instant relief. 

PROFUSE STALING. 

The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diuretic 
medicines, as saltpetre, rosin, etc. Unwholesome food will some- 
times produce it. Treatment : Give one of the following balls every 
night — powdered opium, one-half ounce ; powdered kino, one ounce ; 
prepared chalk, one ounce ; mix with molasses and make six balls. 

STONES IN THE BLADDER. 

These may exist a long time in the bladder before any symptoms 
arise indicating their presence. The first symptoms of stone are, 
frequent efforts to urinate, voiding small quantities, usually of a 
thick whitish color; as the stones increase in size, the symptoms 
become more aggravated, colicky pains are indicated, rendering it 
difficult to distinguish the difference: the animal paws, kicks at his 
belly, lies down, rolls, and gets up quickly In some cases, these 



110 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

obstructions are dissolved by the administration of muriatic acid, 
two drachms, in a pail of water once a day. When this fails, an 
operation for the removal of the stone is the only remedy. This is 
not, comparatively, a dangerous operation, in the hands of a skillful 
surgeon. 

QUITTER. 

This is a formation of puss between the hoof and the soft structures 
within ; a sore at the coronet or upper part of the foot, which at first 
is a hard, smooth tumor, but soon becomes soft, aid breaks, dis- 
charging quantities of pus. Treatment : poultice the foot for several 
days with flax-seed meal. As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut 
away all loose portions, but no more, and inject with a syringe, 
either of the following, once a day: Chloride of zinc, two drachms, 
dissolved in one pint of water; or sulphate of zinc, one and a half 
drachms; dissolved in one pint of water; or nitrate of silver, two 
drachms, in a pint of water; or glycerine may be used with 
advantage. Before using the wash, have the foot well cleaned with 
castile soap and water. 

THRUSH. 

This is a disease of the frog, causing a discharge of matter from 
its cleft or division, occasionally causing lameness. The treatment 
is simple and effective : Wash the feet well with soap and water, 
and sprinkle a small quantity of pulverized sulphate of copper in the 
cleft, and secure it by pressing a little raw cotton down upon it in 
such a manner as to keep out the dirt. In two or three days repeat 
if necessary. It rarely requires a second dressing. 

CANKER. 

This is a more aggravated form of thrush, often proving very 
troublesome to manage. It is a continuation of the thrush between 
the horny frog and the internal structures of the foot, causing 
separation between them. Treatment: Cut away all the horn which 
has been separated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply 
the following ointment: Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, melt 
over a slow fire, and add sulphuric acid very slowly until ebullition 
ceases; or "use collodion, half an ounce; castor oil, one ounce; mix 
and apply to the parts. The foot must be protected from dirt by a 
bandage or a leathern boot. 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. Ill 

SCRATCHES. 

This disease is well known to all horsemen. Treatment: Wash 
the parts-well with castile soap and water, and when dry apply once 
a day the collodion and castor oil, recommended in canker; or use a 
saturated solution of the bichloride of mercury once a week, but not 
oftener, or mischief may arise in consequence of a too free use. 

GREASE HEELS. 

This is a white, offensive, greasy discharge from the heels of the 
horse. The skin becomes hot, tender and swollen; the acrid charac- 
ter of the discharge often causes large portions of the skin to slough 
away, leaving an ugly sore behind. Treatment: Open the bowels with 
the following ball : Barbadoes aloes, one oz. ; pulverized gentian root, 
two drs. ; pulverized ginger one dr. ; water sufficient to make the ball. 
Wash the parts well, and poultice for two or three days with the follow- 
ing: Flaxseed meal mixed with a solution of two drs. sulphate of zinc to 
a pint of water; after which keep clean and bathe frequently with gly- 
cerine or the solution of zinc, or a solution of the chloride of lime 
may be used, or the bichloride of mercury may be used in inveterate 
cases with good results, provided it be not repeated oftener than once 
a week. 

WATER FARCY. 

Anasarca, as it is technically called, is of two kinds; one occurring 
in young animals, from inflammatory action; the other in old horses, 
from general debility. It is known by swelling of the legs, belly, 
sheath and other parts. In young animals there is heat, and pain on 
pressure oo the swollen parts; in old horses there is no pain on press- 
ure, but the marks of the finger are left behind. Treatment : Give one of 
the following powders night and morning in the feed: Sulphate ol 
iron, two ozs. ; nitrate of potassia, one oz. ; pulverized gentian, one 07. ; 
pulverized ginger, six drs. ; anise seed, ground, half oz. ; mix, and divide 
into eight powders: or, sulphate of copper, nitrate of potassia and pul- 
verized gentian, of each one oz. ; pulverized ginger, half oz. ; anise seed, 
ground, five drs. ; mix, and divide into eight powders. Hand-rubbing 
and moderate exercise every day are very important, with a pure 
atmosphere in your stable. 

FOUNDER. 

This disease occurs generally in the horse with hard, brittle or con- 



112 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

iracted hoofs, in consequence of their inability to yield to the weight 
of the animal. In this condition they wait for the exciting or imme- 
diate cause to develop the disease. These causes are a hard drive 
upon a hard road, watering when warm, particularly when pimp or 
spring water is used, standing in a draught of air, etc. Symptoms: 
Fore feet thrown forward, resting upon the heels, weight of the body 
thrown back upon the hind legs, front feet hot and tender, pulse ful] 
and quick, respiration accelerated, the animal in very severe cases 
seeks relief by lying down. Treatment : If the animal is in full con- 
dition, bleed freely from the feet, and give the following: Barbadoes 
aloes, six drs. ; croton oil, six drops; pulverized ginger, one dr.; pul- 
verized gentian, two drs. ; mix with water in form of a ball ; foment the 
feet well with hot water, and then poultice with flaxseed meal for 
several days ; give in the water every six hours, extract of belladonna, 
one dr. Under this treatment the worst cases usually recover in 
one week' s time if taken in hand early. 

POMICED FEET. 

This disease is known to horsemen as falling of the sole, and is the 
result of neglected founder. Careful shoeing, so as to protect the 
sole, is ail that can be done in these cases. 

NAVICULAR JOINT LAMENESS. 

Coffin-joint lameness, as it is commonly called, is one of very com- 
mon occurrence, and the symptoms often so obscure as to mislead the 
ordinary observer. This disease generally is preceded for months 
before lameness is observed by pointing, that is, by advancing one 
foot whenever the animal is at rest. The degrees of lameness vary 
considerably in different animals. In one case it is seen in the first 
half-mile's travel only; in others it continues for a mile or two and 
then disappears ; in some it continues during a journey, but as the 
animal gets warmed up, it is not so severe as on the start. In some 
cases it disappears for weeks together, and then shows itself again, 
gradually increasing in intensity, until it becomes a permanent lame- 
ness. In the early stages of the disease there is no heat to be discov- 
ered about the foot, no swelling, no pain on pressing the heels; the 
' animal picks up the foot nicely, but drops it tenderly, striking the toe 
-first ; the shoe, therefore, is worn considerably at the toe and very 
little at the heels. Should a horse be slightly lame in both feet, the 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 113 

symptoms are still more obscure and difficult to diagnose. The action 
of the horse now becomes changed; he no longer bends his knees with 
the same freedom as before, he steps short, the heels scarcely touching 
the ground, which is a good indication of the disease. 

Treatment. — In recent cases the application of a proper blister is 
usually successful, the common fly blister, thinried with spirits of tur- 
pentine, answers a very good purpose; or the following, which must 
be used with great caution to prevent its leaving a blemish behind: 
powered cantharides, two drs. : oil of turpentiue, two drs. ; powdered 
euphorbium, one dr. ; oil of origanum, one dr. ; hogs' lard, two ozs. 
Mix all together. This should not be repeated after the blister acts. 
In cases of long standing, a seton put through the frog will often be 
of great service in restoring the animal to usefulness. 

OSSIFICATION OF THE LATERAL CARTILAGES. 

These cartilages are two grizzly projections or wings attached to the 
coffin-bone at the heels, and may readily be felt above the hoof. From 
contraction, corns and other causes, these elastic bodies often become 
changed from gristle to bone in consequence of inflammation, leaving 
the horse with thick heels, and a short, tender tread in traveling. 
The treatment in these cases is only palliative in its confirmed state ; 
the same treatment as for navicular joint lameness is proper. 

SHOULDER STRAIN. 

This arises from slipping, severe blows, falling in the shafts, etc. 
The symptoms are all well marked. The animal, instead of raising 
the foot, drags the toe on the ground in walking; on making a lever 
of the leg, by. bringing it forward, the animal manifests much pain; 
these usually are positive symptoms. 

Treatment.— Bleed freely from the Plantar vein, running down 
upon the inside of the front legs. Foment the shoulders well with 
hot water if the case is a recent one. If of long standing, a seton will 
be more effective. The following liniment will be a useful applica- 
tion: Sweet oil, one pint; spirits of hartshorn, three ounces; spirits of 
turpentine, two ounces; mix all together; shake well before using. 
Or, alcohol, one pint; spirits of camphor, tincture of myrrh, castile 
soap, of each one ounce; mix all together. Or, oil of turpentine, one 
ounce; tincture of opium, one ounce; soap liniment, one ounce; tinc- 
ture of capsicum, one drachm ; mix all together. 






114 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

CAPPED HOCK. 

This is a bruise of the cap or point of the hock joint, forming a 
serious abscess. 

Treatment. — Apply the blister recommended in coffin-joint lame- 
ness. Tincture of iodine or iodine ointment is sometimes useful. 

BONE SPAVIST. 

This is one of the most common causes of lameness in the hind 
legs. Spavin arises from strains, sprains, or blows upon the hock- 
joint, causing an inflammatory condition of the cartilaginous cushions 
which cover the uniting surfaces of each bone, or of the ligaments 
that surround the joint and bind the bones together; sometimes both 
are involved. This inflammatory condition of the joint may be con- 
sidered the exciting cause of spavin, and, if not speedily removed, 
spavin soon follows; the synovial fluid, commonly called joint-oil, is 
soon absorbed, the cartilages of the joint are turned to bone, which 
unite one with the other, forming one solid mass, destroying the 
mobility of the parts involved, and constituting what is technically 
called anchylosis of the hock-joint, This union of the bones is not 
always general, there being in many cases but two, three, or four of 
the bones involved. When these changes are confined to the carti- 
lages, there is no external enlargement; on the contrary, when the 
ligaments surrounding the joint are involved, we have in all cases 
external enlargement. When the hock receives an injury, the course 
of treatment usually pursued by horsemen is very pernicious. The 
application of a blister to an inflamed surface must do injury by in- 
creasing the inflammation they wish to abate, and in many cases act- 
ually producing a spavin where it otherwise would not exist. I do 
not deny that blisters are necessary and useful in such cases, if prop- 
erly applied ; but the idea of rubbing blisters on an inflamed surface, to 
reduce it, is like throwing shavings on burning coals to extinguish them. 
The educated physician, in applying a blister, does it so as to draw 
the inflammation from the part alfected to a part where it will do no 
injury; otherwise, it had better not be applied at all. When the dig- 
ease has advanced so far as to produce alteration of structure in the 
part, the application of blisters is proper, not for the purpose of curing 
the disease, but with a view of removing the lameneas, by increasing 
the inflammation, thereby causing a more speedy union of the diseased 



THE HORSEMAN S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 115 

bones, which when perfect, causes the animal to travel sound. The 
seton I have found the most successful in long-standing cases. In 
the early stages, that is, before any alteration of structure takes place, 
the application of cold water to the parts will often abate the inflam- 
mation, or a blister applied above or below the hock will have the de- 
sired effect. Cooling embrocations, such as vinegar and water, are 
also good. "VYhen there is external enlargement, active blisters should 
be applied over the part. Liquid blister: Powdered cotton-seed, half 
oz. ; powdered cantharides, one oz. ; oil of turpentine, one pt. ; olive 
oil, one pt. ; mix altogether and shake well before using. 

RING-BONE. 

This is a disease precisely like spavin, location only giving it a dif- 
ferent name. The same alterations in structure take place, the same 
terminations follow, and the same treatment is called for. Ring-bone, 
unlike spavin, rarely occurs without enlargement. I have never 
known of but one case of the kind. 

SPLINT. 

This is a bony deposit, situated between the cannon and splint 
bones, well-known to all horsemen, rarely causing lameness, except 
when it is situated so as to interfere with the action of the knee-joint, or 
at the lower extremity of the splint-bone. Few horses attain the age of 
eight years without having them ; they disappear in time by spreading 
over a greater surface of bone, becoming flat upon the surface, giving 
rise to the opinion often indulged in by horsemen, that old horses 
never have splint. Splint is a disease of the same character as spavin, 
and requires the same treatment. 

CURB. 

This is an enlargement at the back part of the hock about four 
inches below the cap, arising from strains, bruises, breaking down of 
the hock, etc. 

Treatment.— Take benoidide of mercury, three drachms; lard, 
two ounces; mix it well; clip the hair close, just the size of the en- 
largement, rub the ointment on with the fin^or. In three or four 
days the matter which oozes from the enlargement will form a thick 
scab; soften with fresh lard and pick it off; rub dry with the hand, 






116 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

and apply as above. Five or six applications will remove any curb. 
For splints, apply in the same manner. 

BLOOD OR BOG-SPAVIN. 

This is but one disease, a bursal enlargement, or an increase in the 
secretion of the joint-oil, causing distention of the capsular ligament 
which surrounds the joint, causing puffy swellings on the front and 
inside of the joint, rarely causing lameness. Thoroughpin is the 
same disease on a more extensive scale, causing the enlargement 
to extend through the joint from one side to the other. The only 
successful treatment which I have found, with a few exceptions, is 
cold water compresses, placed upon the joint in such a manner as to 
press upon the swollen parts, and retain them there for six or eight 
weeks, by means of a leathern socket made to fit the joint — the com- 
presses to be changed every day; old muslin or woolen cloth is the 
best material to use. 

PALPITATION OF THE HEART. 

This disease is known to the horsemen as the thumps, in conse- 
quence of the violent action of the heart, causing a jerking or shaking 
of the entire animal frame, observable at a distance of several yards. 
This disease is sometimes preceded by an obscure lameness, generally 
occurring in the off fore-leg, which, in medical language, is termed 
sympathetic. 

Treatment. — The worst cases yield in two hours to the following 
simple treatment : Divide one drachm of digitalis into five powders, 
and give one every fifteen minutes, on the tongue. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE BRAIN. 

Mad staggers, as this disease is called, arises from various causes. 
Blows over the head will produce it, overfeeding, a tight collar, 
powerful stimulants, etc. Symptoms : the animal at first is dull, and 
moves with apparent reluctance, the membranes dividing the eye-lids 
and nose are much reddened, pulse full and quick, appetite lost, a 
vacant stare about the eyes, ending in delirium or madness. Every 
thing around the animal is destroyed or injured. He continues his 
ravings until exhausted. 

Treatment. — Open the jugular vein as quickly as possible, this 



117 

should be done before the mad stage comes on, or it is too late to be of 
much service. Open the bowels freely, give the following : Barbadoes 
aloes, one oz. ; croton oil, ten drops ; ginger one dr. ; gentian one dr. ; 
mix with molasses or honey. Give tobacco smoke injections if con- 
venient, or soap and water will answer the purpose, give on the tongue 
every two hours, ten drops tincture of aconite, until eight doses have 
been given, and then stop the aconite ; give cold water to drink, and 
apply cold water bandages to the head, or bags of ice would be better; 
give no food for twelve hours after relief .is obtained. 

STOMACH STAGGERS. 

This disease occurs in horses that are great feeders, in consequence 
the stomach becomes enormously distended, causing pressure upon the 
lungs and heart, interfering with the action of both, and causing a de- 
termination of blood to the head, producing stupor, with a tendency 
to pitch forward, resting the head against a tree or any object which 
may be in his way; the head often becomes bruised and cut by coming 
in contact with hard and rough objects, the bowels are constipated, 
the pulse full and slow, respiration disturbed, etc. 

Treatment. — Give the purging ball recommended in inflammation 
of the brain, and bleed freely from the jugular vein, give no food for 
forty-eight hours. This is all the treatment the animal requires. As 
soon as the bowels are opened the animal is relieved. Care should be 
used after recovery not to allow the animal too much provender, and 
keep the bowels in good order, as a preventive of subsequent attacks. 

POLL-EVIL. 

This disease is said to arise from blows upon the head behind the 
ears, in going in or out of stables with low doors, pulling upon the 
halter, etc. Such injuries in animals whose blood is in a bad condition 
will cause poll-evil, but it cannot live in a healthy system. The 
author's experience convinces him that the disease oftener arises from 
hereditary causes than from any other, having met with on several 
occasions two or three unbroken colts, from the same mare, affected 
with this disease, proving beyond a doubt the ready transmission of 
the disease from parent to offspring. 

Treatment.— The blood must be thoroughly purified before a cure 
can be effected. Give the following powder: Pulverized sulphur, one 



118 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

lb. ; black anatomy in powder, half lb. ; mix together; dose, one table- 
spoonful, morning and night, in the feed. No corn or corn-meal 
should be given. Open the bowels with aloes or linseed oil. Lay the 
tumor open with a knife, and inject into the opening a solution of 
sulphate of zinc, two drachms to a pint of water, or the tincture of 
iodine is very good ; sulphuric acid is used in some cases, but it is a 
dangerous remedy. 

FISTULA OF THE WITHERS. 



This disease is situated on the withers, or the raised line of the 
back, over the shoulders, and is precisely the same disease as poll 
evil, location only giving it a different name. It is more common 
than poll-evil, as ten to one ; arising from the same causes, and requir- 
ing the same treatment;, it yields, however, more' readily than the 
former disease. 

GLANDERS. 



: 



This loathsome disease has defied medical treatment in all ages of 
the world. It is one of the most treacherous diseases known to man, 
being highly contagious, and communicated readily from horse to 
horse and from horse to man, by means of inoculation. Hence, the 
best treatment is a leaden ball through the brain. Symptoms: A 
discharge of matter from one or both nostrils, enlargement of one or 
both glands under the jaw. When one nostril only is affected, the 
gland on the same side is almost invariably enlarged, the membrane 
lining the nose is pale or leaden in celor, with ulcerations upon it. 
The discharge usually sticks to the nostrils like glue, and is sometimes 
white, but of tener grayish in color. These latter symptoms appear in 
other diseases of a catarrhal character from an acrid discharge from 
the nose. Glanders fully developed is not easily confounded with 
other diseases, as the discharge becomes more glutinous, and adheres 
to the edges of the nostrils more firmly, with increased tenderness of 
the swellings under the jaw, which now adheres closely to the jaw- 
bone ; the discharge is somewhat streaked with blood, and of an offen- 
sive smell ; there is a slight tumefaction of the under eye-lid, a swell- 
ing or elevation of the bones of the nose or forehead, loss of appetite, 
debility, sometimes cough, swelling of the legs and sheath, and some- 
times lameness without any apparent cause, chancres or ulcerations 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 119 

within the nostrils. When these symptoms appear, the disease soon 
proceeds to a fatal termination. 

Treatment. — The sulphate of soda, in ounce doses, three times a 
day, has been attended with partial success, and many cures are 
claimed through the agency of this simple remedy. 

farcy. 

This disease I regard as an incipient stage of glanders, or as a type 
of the same fatal malady, and it is, to a certain extent, curable. 
There are two distinct varieties or stages of farcy — one, which is 
called button farcy, is altogether superficial, being confined to the 
lymphatic vessels of the skin, and readily yields to medical treatment; 
the other variety makes its appearance in the extremities, generally 
upon the inside of the hind legs, which become completely engorged, 
presenting a very uneven and lumpy appearance, excessively tender, 
and painful to the touch. Small abscesses are formed, which at 
first discharge healthy pus, but soon ulcerate and discharge a thin, 
sanious matter. These abscesses first make their appearance on the 
inside of the hind legs, and then on the fore ones in like manner; the 
neck and lips come next in turn, and they may appear in all parts of 
the body, when glanders will begin to manifest itself. 

Treatment. — Give one ounce of the sulphate of soda three times a 
day; or corrosive sublimate, in ten-grain doses, twice a day; or nux 
vomica, in half -drachm doses, twice a day. Sulphate of copper, in 
two-drachm doses, has been used with decided advantage. The tumors 
should be opened and caustic silver or red-hot iron applied to each. 

MANGE. 

This is a disease of the skin, identical with itch in the human fam- 
ily. The hair comes off in spots, which gradually blend together, 
causing scabby patches: the skin thickens and puckers along the 
neck. 

Treatment. — Take the horse in the sun and scrub him thoroughly 
all over with castile soap and water ; then wash him well from head 
to tail with gas-water, in which put two drachms white hellebore to 
the gallon. He must now be put into another stall distant from the 
one in which he has been standing. Thus treated it rarely requires 
more than one washing to effect a permanent cure. The harness 



120 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

should be thoroughly scrubbed and put away for six or eight weeks. 
These precautions are necessary to success in this otherwise trouble- 
some disease. 

SURFEIT. 

This is a scurfy eruption all over the body, arising from an impure 
condition of the blood, causing plethora in one animal, and general 
debility, etc., in another. The legs swell, the hair is rough and star- 
ing, the membrane lining in the nose presents a bluish cast. 

Treatment. — Give the following: Barbadoes aloes, one oz. ; nitrate 
of potassa, two drachms ; gentian, one drachm ; make into a ball with 
water; follow this with the following powder : Nitrate of potash, two 
ozs. ; pulverized sulphur, six ozs. ; black antimony, two ozs. ; mix and 
divide into sixteen powders; give one morning and night. 

HIDE-BOUND. 

Any derangement of the system has a tendency to produce this con- 
dition of the skin. Medicines of an alterative character are here in- 
dicated; the most successful are: Sulphur, pulverized, eight ounces; 
nitrate of potassa, pulverized, three ounces ; black antimony, pulver- 
ized, two ounces; sulphate of iron, four ounces; mix all together, 
and give one table-spoonful twice a day. Or, Barbadoes aloes, two 
ounces; nitre, one ounce; gentian, one ounce; mix and divide into 
sixteen powders, one to be given at night and one in the morning. 

LOCKED-JAW. 

This is one of the most troublesome and uncertain diseases with 
which the veterinary surgeon has to combat ; it is technically called 
tetanus. It arises generally from nail wounds in the feet, sharp, me- 
tallic substances taken into and wounding the stomach, or stones in 
the stomach or intestines ; bots are said occasionally to be the cause 
of locked-jaw, etc. The first symptoms of the disease are observed 
about the ninth or tenth day after the injury is done, which are a 
straggling or stiffness of the hind legs, to which succeeds, in a few 
days, the following: On elevating the head, a spasmodic motion of 
the membrane in the inner corner of the eye will be observed, show- 
ing little more than the white of the eye, the muscles of the jaws 
become rigid, the tongue is swollen and the mouth is filled with 
saliva, the ears are erect, the nose poked out, the nostrils expand, the 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 121 

respiration becomes disturbed, and finally the jaws become firmly set, 
and the bowels are constipated. 

Treatment. — That which I have found most successful, is the 
early administration of the following: Tincture of aconite, two 
drachms ; tincture of belladonna, two drachms ; water, one-half ounce ; 
mix and give forty drops every four hours on the tongue. Keep a 
ball of aloes in the mouth for several days; there is no fear of giving 
too much ; I have frequently given half a pound in the course of a 
few days, with good results. Hydrocyanic acid, twenty drops, in a 
little water, and put upon the tongue every four hours, is an excellent 
remedy. Foment the jaws with bags of hops steeped in hot water. 
and bathe the line of the back, from the pole to the croup, with mus- 
tard and vinegar. Be careful not to allow the animal to be unneces- 
sarily excited by noises and bustle about him, but go about him very 
quietly ; keep a pail of bran slop before him all the time. If the foot 
has been injured, poultice with flaxseed meal, and keep the wound 
open until healthy action has been established. 

RHEUMATISM. 

This is a common disease in some localities, as it is in the human 
family; the animal appears stiff and sore, the lameness shifting from 
one limb to another, the joints sometimes become swollen and painful 
to the touch, the animal appearing better or worse, according to the 
season of the year and the condition of the atmosphere. 

Treatment. — Open the bowels with the following; Calomel, one 
drachm; Barbadoes aloes, four drachms; alcohol, two drachms ; lin- 
seed meal, two drachms; molasses enough to make into a ball; follow 
this with pine tar, one-half ounce, made into a ball with flaxseed 
meal ; give one every morning. Poultice the feet with flaxseed meal, 
four parts, ground mustard, one part, for several days, and bathe the 
affected limbs with the following iinim Q nt : Oil of turpentine, tinc- 
ture of opium, soap liniment, of each one ounce; tincture of capsicum 
one drachm ; mix all together ; shake well before using. 

CRAMP. 

This disease baffles the judgment of the most experienced horse- 
men, often creating unnecessary alarm from the peculiar manner in 
which the animal is handled. 



122 

Symptoms.— The horse appears well in body and limb, until efforts 
are made to move him; lie then appears to have lost all power of 
motion in one of his legs, usually the hind ones; it is firmly planted 
on the ground, and the most powerful man fails to move it. On com- 
pelling the animal to move, the leg drags behind as though it were 
dislocated. Upon striking him with the whip he frequently will take 
two or three natural steps, and the leg drags as before. 

Treatment. — Hand rubbing is very necessary, and use the follow- 
ing liniment upon the affected part: Alcohol, one pint; tincture of 
camphor, one-half pint; tincture of opium, four ounces; mix all 
together. 

WARTS. 

When the warts have necks, all that is necessary for their removal 
is a piece of silk tied tightly around them as closely to the roots as 
possible; in a few days they will slough away; or if they are larger at 
their base, pass a needle, armed with a double thread, through the 
vvart as near the root as possible, and tie each way so as to cut off the 
circulation of the blood, and it will soon die and come away; or paint 
it over with the permanganate of potash once a day for a week ; or 
use the caustic potash in the same manner; either of these remedies 
usually answers the purpose. 

SADDLE-GALLS. 

These are too well-known to horsemen to require any special 
remarks regarding their cause, etc. 

Treatment. — Bathe the parts two or three times a day with equal 
parts of tincture of myrrh and tincture of aloes; or, collodion, one 
ounce; castor oil, two ounces; mixed together. Glycerine is also a 
very good remedy. 

DISEASES OF THE EYE AMAUROSIS, OR GUTTA SERENA, 

Commonly called glass eye. In this disease the eyes have a peculiar 
glassy appearance, with an enlarged or expanding pupil. The eyes 
are clear and show no indications of disease to the ordinary observer, 
yet the animal is partially or wholly blind. The cause is paralysis of 
the optic nerve, the best means of detecting which is to expose the 
eye to different degrees of light, which, when disease exists, makes 



THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 123 

no impression on the pupil whatever ; while in a sound eye the pupil 
contracts when exposed to a strong light, and expands when removed 
to a weaker light, or when removed to a dark -place. An animal 
affected with amaurosis will run against any object in his way, and 
present all other symptoms of a horse blind from any other cause. 

Treatment. — Give a strong purge; follow this twice a day with 
half-drachm doses of nux vomica, mixed in the feed; apply a fly 
blister back of the eye, and give bran-mashes for a few days. No 
corn should be used until the sight is restored. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE HAW. 

As it is commonly called ; also known as the Hooks. This is a swel- 
ling from inflammation of the membrane in the inner corner of the 
eye, called the membrana nictitans. Its office or function is to cleanse 
the eye of dirt or other substances getting into it. 

Treatment. — This is simple and effective; open the bowels with 
the aloes ball recommended in rheumatism, and apply the following 
wash: tincture of opium, one ounce; rain water, one pint; mix to- 
gether and bathe the eye three or four times a day. Do not be per- 
suaded to cut out this membrane of the eye, as its removal does in- 
jury by impairing its functions. 

SIMPLE OPHTHALMIA. 

This disease arises from some external injury, as a blow upon the 
eye, or from a foreign body getting in to it, causing inflammation to 
ensue ; the eye becomes swollen, very sensitive and watery. 

Treatment. — Open the vein under the eye, and let it bleed until it 
stops of itself. Open the bowels, and use the following wash : tinct- 
ure of opium, six drachms ; tincture of aconite, two drachms; rain- 
water, one pint; mix all together, and bathe the eye three times d day; 
or, use belladonna, one ounce, rain-water, one pint ; mix, and bathe 
the same. 

SPECIFIC OPHTHALMIA. 

This is called by horsemen, moon blindness, from its periodical ap- 
pearance; supposed by some persons to be governed by the moon. 
The eyes in this disease become watery, and a white film covers the 
entire ball of the eye. When this disease once appears, we may look 



124 THE HORSEMAN'S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 

for its termination in blindness. The eyes may be cleared up a few 
times, but eventually the animal goes blind. 

Treatment. — Open the bowels freely with the aloes ball, and give 
internally one of the following powders in the feed, night and morn- 
ing; colchicum root, pulverized, one ounce; linseed meal, two ounces; 
mix and divide into twenty powders. Bathe the eye with the follow- 
ing: belladonna, one ounce; rain-water, one pint; or nitrate of silver, 
eight grains; distilled water, four ounces, mix; or sulphate of zinc, 
half drachm; diacetate of lead, one drachm; water, one and a half 
pints; or take a piece of sulphate of copper (blue stone), shave it thin 
and smooth, and pass it carefully between the eyelid and the eyeball 
twice a day until the eye is cleared up. 

CATARACT. 

This disease is usually the result of termination of specific ophthal- 
mia, causing an opacity or breaking up of the crystalline lens, situa- 
ted directly behind the pupil, presenting a White and cloudy appear- 
ance in the centre of the eye, and causing partial or total blindness. 
Little can be done by way of treatment in this disease as it occurs in 
the horse. 



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